Wine Etiquette
For a beverage that dates back thousands of years, you would expect a myriad of traditions to accompany the consumption of wine. Nowhere is that more obvious than inside a restaurant.
Presentation of the Cork
Before wine bottles had labels, there was no real proof that a particular bottle of wine came from the winery to which it was attributed. Some unscrupulous restaurateurs would pass off common French wine as having come from the famous châteaux. To maintain their good reputations, the châteaux began branding their corks. Restaurants then began presenting the corks to customers to verify the wine's origin.
The practice continues to this day, long after the need to do so has passed. So, what are you, the diner, supposed to do with the cork once the waiter has plopped it down in front of you? Anything you want. Ignore it. Examine it if you prefer. Sniff it if you feel like it. Slip it into your pocket to take as a souvenir. The cork won't tell you anything that won't be evident in the glass.
Presentation of the cork will become less of an issue as more wineries opt for screw cap closures. Unless there's a winning sweepstakes number inside the cap, the screw cap probably won't be presented for inspection.
Corks that are either dry and crumbly or completely wet are a clue that air may have crept into the bottle and spoiled the wine. A taste will tell you. Occasionally, harmless tartrate crystals are visible at the end of the cork that had contact with the wine. They have no effect on taste.
The Tasting Ritual
Back in the days before modern winemaking methods, wine would often go bad, so restaurant patrons were offered the opportunity to sample their wine before drinking it. That's still the reason for the ritual. It's not merely to see if the wine meets your expectations. It's not to test your wine knowledge and show you up as a rube. It's simply to make sure you're getting the wine you ordered and that the wine is in good condition.
Here are the steps in the routine:
The waiter presents the bottle for you to visually inspect. You check that it's the same wine and same vintage that you ordered. If not, speak up. If the wine you ordered isn't available, your server should make a recommendation for a similar wine in the same price range.
The waiter cuts the capsule and removes the cork. He puts the cork on the table in front of you. You've already mastered this step.
The waiter pours a small amount of wine into your glass. You admire it. Study the wine against a white or light background, such as the tablecloth or napkin.
If the wine's color and clarity have met with your approval, it's time to swirl. Now stick your nose right into the glass and inhale deeply.
Assuming the aromas have been pleasing, take a sip. Hold the wine in your mouth. Roll it around on your tongue before you swallow.
Now to the big finish. The wine is acceptable, and you nod to the waiter. That's his signal to pour for the group.
That's all there is to it. Take a bow.
When you order a second bottle of a different wine, the waiter brings clean glasses, and you repeat the ritual. When the second bottle is the same wine, the waiter brings one clean glass and offers you the opportunity to taste again. It's up to you. The restaurant is under no obligation to bring clean glasses for everyone, but it's a nice gesture.
Sending a Wine Back
If the wine is clearly flawed, do not hesitate to send it back. The wine could be corked, oxidized, or maderized. In other words, if it smells like wet cardboard, nail polish remover, or Sherry (when you didn't order Sherry), something is wrong.
Calmly yet confidently, simply say, “I'm afraid this is a bad bottle, and I'd like to send it back.” A server who knows wine will probably smell it for himself and cart off the offending bottle. He'll return with a replacement. Even if you're the only one who perceives the flaw, the waiter will most likely replace the wine anyway.
Rejecting a bottle is hardly a financial hardship for the restaurant. The restaurant will, in turn, send the bottle back to the distributor for replacement.
Sample Before You Order
The tasting ritual is all about the condition of the wine, not whether you are happy with your selection. In some instances, there are ways to sample a bottle before you buy it. Simply flip back to the wines-by-the-glass section of the list, and see if the bottle you want appears there.
A restaurant isn't about to open a bottle of wine just for you to taste. It would be too wasteful — and expensive — if you didn't like it. If the wine you wish to taste is also available by the glass, your server will likely give you a small sample to try. If that is not possible, simply purchase a glass. It is always preferable to purchase a glass and not like it than to purchase an entire bottle and not like it.
The Corkage Fee
Some restaurants, including many famous ones, will allow you to bring a bottle of wine with you to dinner. You can pick out something special from your cellar or stop at a wine shop on the way and pick up something from the closeout shelf. You don't pay restaurant markups, but you can expect to pay a corkage fee to cover the costs of wine service and use of the restaurant's glassware. The fee is usually a per-bottle charge and can vary dramatically.
There are some rules of etiquette to follow when you want to take a bottle to a wine-serving restaurant. Never take a bottle that is already on the restaurant's wine list. Call in advance to check. In fact, calling ahead is always a good idea. When you explain that you've been saving this special wine for ten years to drink in celebration of your tenth wedding anniversary, what restaurateur wouldn't be charmed?
At tipping time, don't forget to do the right thing: Tip your waiter according to what the bill would have been had you ordered the wine from the restaurant's list.
