If Riesling were one of the grapes in Champagne, it would undoubtedly be the world's noblest white grape, supplanting Chardonnay for the title. In the nineteenth century, Riesling was considered the best white grape variety because it produced wine of such “elegance.”

The physical and spiritual home of Riesling is Germany, where it's been grown for at least 500 years and possibly as long as 2,000 years. It thrives in the coldest vine-growing climates and has found excellent homes in Alsace, Austria, Canada, and in the northern United States, in areas of New York, Washington, Oregon, and Michigan.

A Grape in No Need of Blending

Riesling is rarely blended with other grapes. It doesn't need to be. It produces wines that run the gamut from bone dry and crisp to ultra-sweet and complex. Riesling is one of the few whites that have a long aging capacity. The finest will last for 20 years or more.

Unlike Chardonnay, which relies on winemaker interventions for its style, Riesling relies on nature for its diversity. The winemaker really has only two decisions to make: when to pick the grapes and how long to ferment the juice.

The ripeness level of the Riesling grape at harvest drastically conditions the personality of the finished wine. In Germany, where ripeness levels vary from year to year, a system was developed to convey that ripeness level to consumers. Germany's Riesling's can de designated “Kabinett” (least ripe) all the way to “Trockenbeerenauslese” (ripest, late harvest).

“Dry” Riesling

Riesling is the favored grape for the sweet and acclaimed late harvest wines and for some ice wines. However, for table wines the preference in recent years has been for dry wines. Producers have been deliberately making Rieslings in a dry style, which means crisp and lower in alcohol. In Germany, dry Rieslings will have the terms “Trocken” (dry), “Classic,” or “Selection” on the label.

In Alsace, the French wine region across the Rhine from Germany, Rieslings are usually fermented bone dry. Compared to a dry German Kabinett Riesling with an alcohol content as low as 10 percent, an Alsatian Riesling will have at least 12 percent alcohol.

Riesling is sometimes labeled as Johannisberg Riesling, Rhine Riesling, or White Riesling.

RIESLINGS WORTH TRYING

• Dr. Konstantin Frank Johannisberg Riesling (Finger Lakes, New York)

• Pewsey Vale Riesling (Eden Valley, South Australia)

• Dr. Burklin-Wolf Estate Riesling (Pfalz, Germany)