Chardonnay is undoubtedly the noblest white grape in the world. It can produce the greatest variety of wines in the greatest variety of areas. DNA profiling has concluded that Chardonnay is a cross between the notoriously unstable Pinot Noir and an ancient, and almost extinct, variety called Gouais Blanc. Burgundy claims the title of Chardonnay's birthplace, and there is little to dispute that claim.

The Chameleon

Chardonnay is fairly low in varietal character, meaning that it is not terribly impressive on its own, or vastly distinguishable from other white grape varieties. Much of what determines the personality of a Chardonnay is what the winemaker does to the grapes.

Using oak to ferment and/or age the wine produces vanilla flavors, while adding richness. Leaving the wine on the spent yeast cells, or lees, adds complexity and a toasty note. Conducting malolactic fermentation reduces the overall acidity and produces a softer, creamier wine. None of this is derived from the grapes themselves.

Location, Location, Location

Chardonnay is hardy and versatile and can grow successfully in all but the most extreme wine regions around the world. It can make great — though somewhat different — wines almost anywhere it's reasonably comfortable. Cool climate Chardonnays tend toward a dry crispness and clean fruit flavors. Warmer climate Chardonnays lean toward richer honey and butterscotch flavors.

In Burgundy, Chardonnay goes into all the region's white wines, such as Montrachet, Meursault, Pouilly-Fuissé, and Chablis. It's one of the three grapes — along with Pinot Noir and Pinot Meunier — allowed in Champagne and the only grape in blanc de blancs.

One Grape, Many Styles

Chardonnay is ubiquitous. Some would say boring. Chardonnay is particularly compatible with oak, and many wine connoisseurs have criticized producers, especially in the New World, for over-oaking their Chardonnays. Recently, a series of unoaked Chardonnays have entered the arena and are gaining momentum. Traditionally, famed unoaked styles have come from northern Italy, Chablis, and Burgundy's Mâconnais district.

Chardonnay's versatility is the main reason why it has become one of the most recognized wines in the world. You can expect a tremendous variety of flavors, medium to high acidity, medium to full body, and minimal fruit to tropical fruit. And you can count on a wine that's dry.

BIG, OAKY, AND CREAMY CHARDONNAYS

• Lewis Cellars Reserve Chardonnay (Napa Valley, California)

• Rombauer Chardonnay (Carneros, Napa Valley, California)

• Château Potelle Winery “VGS” Chardonnay (Napa Valley, California)

UNOAKED CHARDONNAYS

• Kim Crawford Unoaked Chardonnay (Marlborough, New Zealand)

• Jermann Chardonnay (Friuli, Italy)

• Scarpantoni Estate Wines Unwooded Chardonnay (McLaren Vale, Australia)