Bordeaux's loss is Argentina's gain. While the fifth of the five noble Bordeaux varieties (six, if you count the minor grape Carmenère) still has a home in its native land, its susceptibility to many grape maladies has discouraged its planting.

In warmer areas such as Mendoza, Argentina, the grape thrives and is commanding higher and higher prices internationally. Known for its density, dark fruit, and backbone of tannins, Argentine Malbec is giving California reds some fierce competition. While Malbec is grown to some scale in California, it is mainly used as a blending grape, adding color to Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon.

MALBECS TO KNOW

• Achaval Ferrer “Finca Bella Vista” Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina)

• Antigal “1” Malbec (Mendoza, Argentina)

• Ladera Vineyards Malbec (Napa Valley, California)