A heavy skillet is a must to make really good fried fare. The best choice is an iron skillet. The oil in the pan should be hot but not smoking. As pieces of food are placed in the skillet, the temperature of the oil will decrease. Adjusting the temperature gauge is a must. So raise the heat, then lower it a bit. Next batch, raise the heat again, then lower a little bit again.

• Clean and rinse pieces of meat. Place in a large pot and fill with salted water to cover. Refrigerate for 2 hours or overnight.

• When ready to fry, remove from salted water and pat dry.

• Place seasoned flour in a large bowl. Combine eggs and milk in another large bowl and beat.

• Dip each piece of meat first in the egg mixture and then in the flour mixture, then dip in the egg and flour again. Set on a platter.

• In the meantime, heat the oil in a large skillet until hot. Fry several pieces of the meat at a time, making sure not to crowd the skillet. Fry meat, turning several times until meat is cooked through, tender, and golden brown, about 12 to 15 minutes for small pieces of meat and 16 to 18 minutes for larger pieces. Serve hot.

Soaking Squirrels and Rabbits in Saltwater or Milk

Small game and birds can all take a bit of soaking. The simplest soak is a big bowl of cold water plus 2 or 3 tablespoons of salt. The saltwater can be changed several times until it runs clear, without a trace of blood. If soaking in milk, refrigerate for 2 or 3 hours, then rinse in water.