The sportsman's favorite from the drum family. If you can't catch or find kingfish at the store, you can substitute another moderately firm, full-flavored fish such as amberjack, mackerel, mullet, or wahoo.

• Soak a handful of mesquite chips in water for 30 minutes.

• In a bowl, combine the avocados, corn, green onion, garlic, cilantro, chipotle pepper sauce, lime juice, and salt to taste. Stir to blend and set aside.

• Brush the fish with olive oil and season with kosher salt and freshly ground pepper to taste.

• Heat the grill, and when it is hot, throw the mesquite chips on the coals. Grill the fish directly over the flames for about 4 to 5 minutes per side or 10 minutes per inch of thickness of the fillet. Turn only once, halfway through grilling. Serve, topped with the salsa, at once.

Metal Smoker Boxes

Metal smoker boxes have small holes all over the box so that maximum smoke is emitted. Since smoker boxes are made especially for gas grills (so wood chip residue does not fall through the grates and clog the gas jets), give them a try. Place the box over the hot fire and close the lid for 10 to 15 minutes. When smoke is coming from the box, then start cooking.