This recipe can be reversed in that the bird can be dredged in flour and dipped in egg, lightly browned, and finished in the oven. The outside coating is not as crisp, but it is very good.

• Soak sage hens in milk for several hours or overnight.

• Preheat oven to 325°F.

• Place eggs in a shallow bowl. Combine flour, crackers, and pepper and place in a bowl. Dip meat in egg, then dredge in flour mixture.

• Sauté meat in hot oil until golden brown. Place in a baking dish.

• Pour 2 cups half-and-half over the meat and bake, covered, for 1 to 1½ hours or until meat is tender and falling off the bone. Add more cream halfway through baking if needed.

Smothered Birds

Tender game birds need to be sautéed, fried, or broiled quickly. If they are baked or braised, more cooking time is needed. Smothering birds in liquid, especially cream, is always a winner.