Make this soup once and then never forget to have the butcher save some meaty soup bones to make this wondrous potion. Serve it as a main-course soup with salad and bread. Or, it's a tasty appetizer served in mugs to sip by the fire. Because this soup takes lots of time, consider doubling the recipe and freezing half of it to serve at another time. Another tip is to start the soup a day ahead of time. After it has cooked until the meat is tender and pulls off the bone, let it cool and refrigerate it. Then finish it the next day from step 2 on.

• In a large stockpot, place the soup bones, cloves, allspice, peppercorns, onion, carrots, and 1 teaspoon salt. Fill with 3 quarts of water and bring to a boil. Lower heat to a simmer and cook, uncovered, until meat is tender, 4 to 6 hours. Do not stir. Remove meaty soup bones. When cool, pick the meat from the bones, dice, and set aside. Place picked bones back into the stock.

• Bring stock to a boil and cook over high heat until it is reduced to about 1 quart.

• Strain stock into another bowl or pan and let cool. Discard spices, vegetables, and bones.

• In the large pot, melt the butter and stir in the flour to make a roux. Cook over medium heat for about 7 to 8 minutes to brown. Slowly pour in the beef stock or consommé and stir well to blend with the roux. Add the game stock, diced meat, tomatoes and juice, and lemon zest and juice. Cook over medium heat until hot. Season to taste with salt and pepper. Stir in the wine to taste, just before serving.