Quinces are too bitter to eat raw, but when they're cooked they attain a delightful flavor. They combine well with other fruit.

• Rub the lemon juice on the quinces.

• I n a saucepan, combine the sugar and water and heat over low to dissolvethe sugar. Add the lemon peel and vanilla bean and simmer for 5 minutes.

• Add the quince slices to the simmering liquid and place a piece of parchment paper over the surface of the liquid. Poke a few slits in the paper to let steam escape.

• Simmer the quinces until tender, 20–25 minutes. Poke them with a paringknife to test for tenderness.

• Remove from heat and let quinces cool in poaching liquid. Refrigerate in liquid until ready to serve.

The Allure of the Quince

Quinces were known by the ancient Greeks as “love apples.” They grow on beautiful flowering trees, and the fruit looks a bit gnarled. They make excellent jams and jellies because they have a great deal of pectin, the stiffening agent in jams and jellies. Their distinctive flavor is very good in combination with other fruits in compotes.