Elegant, classic French soups like this make the right first course for a formal occasion. Serve chilled or warm, and make sure to use the prettiest leek pieces, cut very precisely, for the garnish. People will notice.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 12

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 medium onion, chopped
• 1 pound (about 3 or 4) potatoes, any variety, peeled and cut into 1-inch chunks
• 2 bunches leeks, chopped, thoroughly washed twice; 1 cup of the best parts set aside for garnish
• 1 teaspoon dried sage leaves
• 1 bay leaf
• ¼ cup white wine
• 2 quarts vegetable stock or water
• Salt and white pepper to taste

1. In a large soup pot over medium heat, heat olive oil for 1 minute. Add onion, potatoes, and all but 1 cup of the chopped leeks; cook 10 minutes, until onions turn translucent.

2. Add sage, bay leaf, and wine. Cook 1 minute more. Add stock. Bring to a full boil; reduce heat to a simmer and cook for 45 minutes, until potatoes are very tender and starting to fall apart.

3. Carefully purée the soup in a blender in small batches. Season to taste with salt and white pepper. Steam, boil, or sauté the remaining cup of leeks, and serve the soup garnished with a spoonful of leeks in the center.