Would you want a poodle for a guard dog? Didn't think so. You probably wouldn't want a knockout spicy Sicilian olive oil to perfume a delicate plate of white asparagus either. Different varieties of olives used are a major factor in the character of the oils producers make. Spain, the largest olive oil producing country, uses fruity-tasting olives like the Arbequina and Cornicabra, while Italy favors types like Frantoio, Picholine, Ogiarola, and Cetrala. Some of these names will surely become household words like chardonnay, merlot, and cabernet as the taste for finer olive oil matures in this country. Regional distinctions will also bring certain brands cache or upturned noses, as national distinctions like Italian, Spanish, Greek, Turkish, and others do today.

Already, many consumers know the fresh, fruity, peppery character of Tuscan olive oil by name. Others can identify Sicilian. Many consumers are discovering the more delicate qualities of Spanish oils produced in regions like Catalonia and Toledo. All are good. Depending on the olive type or region, you could say that this region or that is stronger, sweet, peppery … it's in the eye of the taster. In Spain and Italy, the regional distinctions in olive oil character are well known by everyday cooks. Those countries are now trying to increase that awareness here.

European Union authorities have singled out certain regional products for special distinction on the continent. In Italy, those designations are referred to as Protected Designation of Origin (PDO), and cover cheeses, hams, cured meats, agricultural products, and olive oils. The items are selected based on their close identification with their region of origin, and their uniqueness. Twenty regional Italian olive oils qualify for PDO status, including the well-known Toscano, Umbria, Terra di Bari, and Valli Trapanesi regions. Criteria are established for each region regarding acidity levels, olive types, and zone of olive origin. Since massive amounts of inferior olive oil arrive in the United States daily, bearing a “bottled in Tuscany” or “packed in Italy” label when the oil was produced in Romania, Turkey, Cyprus, or some other country, it's important to know the distinctions to look for that certify real origins.