In the winter, asparagus are fatter and imported from the other side of the world. They're perfect for pastas like this, which rely on plump stems.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 6

• 1 bunch asparagus (preferably chubby-stemmed)
• 2 teaspoons olive oil
• 2 medium shallots, sliced thin
• ¼ cup white wine
• ¼ cup vegetable stock or water
• 2 cups heavy cream
• 8 ounces (½ box) spaghetti, cooked al dente, drained, tossed with a drop of olive oil
• ¼ cup Parmigiano Reggiano cheese or other top-quality Parmesan
• Juice of 1 lemon, plus 6 lemon wedges
• Kosher salt and freshly ground black pepper

1. Trim the bottoms of the asparagus, and use a vegetable peeler to peel off the skin from the bottom half of the stalks. Cut the asparagus into bite-size (about 1-inch) pieces.

2. Heat the oil in a large skillet over medium heat; add the shallots and cook 3 minutes to soften them. Add the asparagus and wine; cook until the wine is mostly evaporated, then add the stock (or water).

3. When the asparagus are mostly cooked, and the stock is mostly steamed out, stir in the cream, and bring to a boil; add the spaghetti. Cook until the spaghetti is hot, and the sauce is slightly thick; add the Parmigiano and remove from the heat.

4. Season with lemon juice, salt, and pepper. If necessary, adjust consistency with additional stock or water. Serve with lemon wedges on the side.