One private client I cooked for had traveled throughout China from end to end. When I heard of her travels, I commented that she must've tasted lots of interesting things. “Cabbage,” she replied, “Everywhere I ate cabbage. They have so much of it they hang it outside their doors.” While I can't help feeling she missed something, Chinese cabbage dishes are so delectable that they can make you forget about other things.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 4–6

• ¼ cup plus 2 tablespoons peanut or other neutral oil
• 8 dried red chili peppers, quartered and seeded
• 1 (1-inch) piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
• 1 medium head cabbage (preferably Chinese cabbage, but any variety is okay), washed and chopped into 2-inch pieces
• ½ teaspoon cornstarch
• 1 tablespoon soy sauce
• 1 teaspoon dry sherry or Chinese cooking wine
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1 teaspoon rice wine vinegar
• 1 teaspoon Asian sesame oil

1. Heat ¼ cup of the oil in a wok or skillet over high heat. Stir in the peppers and fry, stirring, for 1 minute, until the peppers darken in color. Transfer the peppers and oil to a bowl and set aside.

2. Pour remaining 2 tablespoons of oil into the wok; add the ginger and cook for a few seconds until fragrant. Add the cabbage all at once. Fry, stirring, for 1 minute.

3. Combine the cornstarch, soy sauce, and sherry together in a small bowl. Add to the wok. Stir until the cornstarch cooks and forms a thick sauce; add the sugar and vinegar.

4. Sprinkle in the sesame oil and pour in the red peppers and their oil. Stir to combine well. Transfer to a serving bowl.