The little child in all of us loves stuffed things. Maybe it's the sense of something hidden, mysterious. Or maybe it's just the sneaky feeling that we're getting two things instead of just one. But the best reason to treasure this colorful cornucopia is that they're easy.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 4

• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 1 tablespoon whole coriander seeds
• 3 medium shallots, roughly chopped
• ¼ teaspoon crushed red pepper flakes (optional)
• 2 pounds spinach, washed and stemmed
• ½ teaspoon salt
• ¼ cup crumbled feta cheese (optional, not vegan)
• 4 plum tomatoes, tops cut off, insides scooped out
• 1 medium zucchini, cut into 4 (2-inch) cylinders
• 1 medium yellow squash, cut into 4 (2-inch) cylinders
• 4 large stuffing mushrooms, stems removed
• Lemon wedges

1. Heat the olive oil and coriander seeds in a small pan until very hot but not smoking — the coriander seeds should become fragrant, but not brown. Strain the oil into a large skillet or Dutch oven; discard the seeds.

2. Over a medium heat, cook the shallots and crushed pepper, if using, for 1 minute — they should sizzle but not brown. Add the spinach all at once; season with salt and cook, stirring, just until spinach is wilted. Transfer to a colander to cool.

3. Chop the spinach roughly on a cutting board. Add the feta cheese, if using. Trim the bottoms of the tomatoes just enough to help them stand straight. Using a small spoon or melon-baller, scoop enough of the seeded center from the zucchini and yellow squash to form a teaspoon-sized pocket.

4. Season all the vegetables liberally with salt and white pepper. Spoon the spinach mixture into them, mounding slightly on top. Any extra spinach may be used to line the plates when serving.

5. Arrange the vegetables in a steamer basket. Steam over rapidly boiling water just until the zucchini becomes tender, about 6 minutes. Serve hot or at room temperature, along with remaining spinach filling and lemon wedges.