Handsome, broad-leafed, and cool, Swiss chard has come back into vogue in recent years, thanks in great part to the devotion of gourmet chefs and nutritionists who have rediscovered the striking beauty (especially of the red-veined varieties) and unearthed its cancer-fighting possibilities. The juicy stems and tender leaves are cooked separately.

INGREDIENTS | SERVES 4

• 1 large bunch red or green Swiss chard (about 1½ pounds)
• 1 cup strong vegetable stock, mushroom stock, or liquid from cooking beans
• Salt and freshly ground black pepper to taste
• 1 tablespoon olive oil
• 2 medium shallots, finely chopped (about ¼ cup)
• 1 tablespoon unsalted butter
• Lemon wedges

1. Wash the chard thoroughly under running water, and shake dry. Using your hands, tear the leafy parts away from the stems; set aside. Cut the stems into bite-size pieces.

2. In a nonreactive skillet (see “Nonreactive Pots,” at bottom), bring the stock to a boil; add the stem pieces. Season with salt and pepper; cook until tender. Transfer them to a bowl or plate, reserving their cooking liquid. Wipe out the skillet.

3. Return the skillet to the heat and add the olive oil and shallots. Cook 1 minute until they sizzle and soften slightly. Add the chard leaves, and cook only until they wilt.

4. Add back the stems, plus 2 tablespoons of their cooking liquid. Bring to a simmer, and swirl in the butter. Taste for seasoning. Serve with lemon wedges.