Florence
The historic center of Florence was added to the list of UNESCO World Heritage Sites in 1982, when the city was deemed “the symbol of the Renaissance” based on its 600 years of cathedral building and master artwork creations. In truth, though, the story of Florence begins much earlier than the Renaissance — way back in 59 B.C., when Julius Caesar founded a settlement called Florentia as a home for his veteran soldiers. The army camp's location, between Rome and the agricultural lands to the north, soon helped the settlement grow into a center of commerce. By the time Michelangelo, da Vinci, and Botticelli burst onto the scene in the 1400s, the city was home to 60,000 to 80,000 people.
After various struggles that for a time had Tuscany falling under the authority of Austria, Florence emerged as Italy's capital in 1865 and kept the title for six years, after which Rome succeeded it. Tourism began to grow in the early 1900s, until German forces occupied Florence for a year during World War II. Allied troops fought for the city's liberation, and since the end of the 1940s, Florence has flourished as a travel destination.
Essential
In Florence, take a moment to consider the placards placed on the walls of some buildings, noting the high water mark from a 1966 flood of the Arno River, which crested at about twenty-two feet in some parts of the city. The damage doesn't appear bad today, but countless lives were lost, at least 3 million books were damaged, and some 14,000 pieces of art were ruined.
You could spend a lifetime in Florence uncovering its history and admiring its architecture, but if you have only a few days to explore, the five must-see sights are Uffizi Gallery, the Galleria dell'Accademia, Florence Cathedral, Campanile, and Ponte Vecchio.
Uffizi Gallery
Housing works by Botticelli, da Vinci, Michelangelo, and Raphael, the Uffizi Gallery is one of the most important art museums not just in Italy, but in the world. It was built as a palace of offices in the mid-1500s (uffizi means offices in Italian), and the ruling Medici used the space for displaying its artistic treasures until the family fell out of power. The collection remained in their wake, and the site was opened as a public museum in 1765, after which its curators continued to collect important pieces. The museum is currently working to complete a massive expansion to finally bring the majority of works out of storage and into the light of day.
Masterworks on Display
The Botticelli works typically on display include The Birth of Venus, an instantly recognizable canvas to even the most peripheral of art students. It depicts the flowing-haired blonde goddess emerging nude from the ocean atop a shell, an iconic portrayal that has been recreated in film and television alike.
Alert
Ticket reservations for touring the Uffizi are essential, especially during the jam-packed tourist month of July. People without reserved tickets have had to wait as long as five hours in the hot summer sun before entering the popular exhibitions. Check the website (
Da Vinci's works include the early oil-on-wood The Adoration of the Magi, which historians cite as one of the artist's earliest efforts at chiaroscuro, or the contrast between light and dark. There was some controversy about the work in 2002, when a restoration technician claimed that da Vinci had only drawn the lines beneath the paint and not done the brushwork himself, but that claim has not been corroborated.
Michelangelo's Doni Tondo is also part of the Uffizi collection. It is the artist's only known preserved panel painting in its original frame, which is round. Michelangelo completed the work before taking on the Sistine Chapel in Vatican City.
The Raphael work that most patrons visit at Uffizi is Portrait of Leo X, considered by many to be the artist's greatest masterpiece. It is one of the last works he composed without assistance before his death. When he first displayed the portrait in the early 1500s, it created a sensation because it portrayed the pope in a group setting with two cardinals, instead of on his own in a more regal pose.
Museum Admissions
The Uffizi is open Tuesday through Sunday from 8:15
Galleria dell'Accademia
This museum, which is within walking distance of the Uffizi, is home to Michelangelo's magnificent marble sculpture David — which has been housed here since the late 1800s. It stands just inside the museum's entrance and is one of the first stops on the tour, housed within a spectacular domed enclave built specifically for it. At seventeen feet tall, David towers above all the tourists, leaving a lasting impression.
You can't get close enough to touch the statue, but you can walk all the way around it and spend some time sitting on nearby benches, pondering every knuckle and muscle that Michelangelo carved. If you purchase the museum's audio tour, you can also hear the story of how the statue was moved through the streets to its current location to protect it from the wind and rain that used to batter it when it stood outside.
Countless online travel agencies sell advance-purchase tickets for the Galleria dell'Accademia. Surcharges apply, and the lines at this museum tend to be shorter than at the Uffizi. Weigh your financial options against the thought of a half-hour's wait when deciding whether to buy in advance.
Florence Cathedral
The Florence Cathedral's proper name is Basilica di Santa Maria del Fiore, originally designed in the late 1200s. The dome was completed in the 1430s, and the current fa çade was finished in the 1880s. It is neo-gothic with white, pink, and green marble panels, plus three massive bronze doors that date to the turn of the twentieth century.
Question
How did Raphael die? Legend has it that he enjoyed an evening of unbridled sexual relations with his longtime girlfriend that left him exhausted to the point of fever, then lied to his doctors about the root of his illness and was given a type of medicine he didn't need, which actually killed him. He was thirty-seven years old.
Inside, the sense of space and volume is extraordinary. Arches in the cathedral are 75 feet tall, and the cathedral itself is just a hair more than 500 feet long (if stood on one end, it would rival modern skyscrapers). There is less artwork in this church than many of the others you can tour in Italy, but Florence Cathedral is noted for its forty-four stained glass windows.
At the website
Fact
Stained glass dates to ancient times, but it didn't come into its own as an art form until the Middle Ages. During those years, the population was largely illiterate, so stained-glass “pictures” were used to describe the stories of the Bible. These story-telling pictures soon took on the form of windows in churches, including prominent use in Florence Cathedral.
Campanile
The word “campanile,” derived from the Italian campana (bell), means a free-standing bell tower. The world's tallest free-standing campanile is at the University of Birmingham in the United Kingdom, but Italy is well known for its campaniles, too, including the Leaning Tower of Pisa.
Giotto's Bell Tower is the campanile in Florence, located next to the Florence Cathedral. It's just shy of 280 feet tall and is named for Giotto di Bondone, a local painter who is widely recognized as one of the first Renaissance artists. He died in 1337, some twenty-two years before the tower was completed. The artist who was in charge of finishing the tower failed to include a spire Giotto had designed, so the artist went to his grave believing his namesake creation would actually be 400 feet tall.
Again, consult the website
Ponte Vecchio
This Medieval bridge, one of Europe's oldest (the name translates as “old bridge”), crosses the Arno River and offers a view of the river from its midpoint. The structure is unusual in that it has shops built along it that once housed butchers and fishmongers who threw their waste over the side and into the river. Later, the shops became the workplace of goldsmiths and silversmiths, and today, jewelry sellers dominate the landscape. Interestingly, this is the only bridge in Florence that Hitler's troops left standing during their 1944 retreat from the city. Rumor has it that the dictator himself gave the order to let the historic bridge stand, though he did authorize destruction of all the buildings at its ends, thus blocking any access to it for the Allies.
Alert
Like the dome in Florence Cathedral, Giotto's bell tower offers outstanding views of Florence from its top — but without the benefit of an elevator. It's 414 treads to the top of the bell tower, from which you can look down on the dome. Also note that a wire cage that is in place atop the bell tower for safety reasons might interfere with your photographs.
Today, you will find not just shops but also street performers and portrait artists along the bridge — especially during the warm summer months, when tourism peaks. It's free to walk across the bridge and look around, but expect to pay a pretty euro if you stop at any of the nearby shops or restaurants, all of which are considered to be part of the tourist district.
Question
How old is Ponte Vecchio?
The answer depends on how you determine age. The structure you can walk across today dates to the 1300s, but other bridges have been built across this section of the Arno River since the 900s. Records show that floods destroyed bridges here in 1117 and 1333, making the existing structure likely the longest standing.

