The Vikings first settled the strategically located County Waterford in the eighth century. The Anglo-Normans vied for it in the 1100s, ousting the already ruthless settlers. Centuries later, as Cromwell's wrath appeared on the horizon, the inhabitants and soldiers surrendered without much fuss.

The Waterford coastline is especially notable as it extends from town through Dungarvan and onward to Youghal Bay. To fully appreciate the beauty of the coastal landscape and picturesque villages, drive or bike following the southeasterly drive, signposted along the R675 from Tramore to Youghal. Tramore Bay is not particularly interesting but does offer some very good surfing points.

Just across the bay from Hook Head is Dunmore East. Composed of nearly 2,000 inhabitants, the harbor town is very much alive. The views are hypnotic on a clear day. The beaches here are popular with locals, especially Counsellor's Beach, with a backdrop of sandstone cliffs.

The town of Dungarvan (Dùn Garbhán) does have some claims to fame, such as the Waterford County Museum (058 45 960, www.dungarvanmuseum.org) and the well-preserved St. Augustine's Church. Outside of town, Helvick Head is on the R674. It provides stunning views of the sea with a backdrop of the sublime Comeragh Mountains.