Getting Around County Donegal
In Donegal, dramatic landscapes, stunning cliffs, sandy beaches, and a rugged countryside give way to traditional towns and a multitude of peninsulas jutting off into numerous bays. While Donegal Town, Ardara, or Killybegs (or Kilcar) are great points to explore the south and west of the county, Gweedore and Bunbeg are prime locations to explore Glenveagh National Park, the Rosses, and even Tory Island.
Flying and Bus
Donegal has its own airport (0 74 954 8284,
Donegal Town
Donegal is the name of the county as well as the name of the main city, which is more of a town than anything else. Locals and area guides alike therefore refer to it as “Donegal Town.” The area flourishes in its own beauty, and tourism is an ever-growing sphere. Donegal Town itself is worth a morning or an afternoon stroll; the town center is not large by any means. It is, however, filled to the brim with local shops. An excellent lunch can be had at one of the many local pubs catering to both denizens and tourists alike. This is also a great place to stock up on any provisions for your explorations through the southern and western regions of the county.
Donegal Town's main attraction is Donegal Castle (described later in “Things to See and Do”). Just follow the signs from the center of town to discover an exquisitely restored ruin bringing deserved pride to the town's inhabitants.
Essential
Parking in Donegal town is tight. The best parking is beside the tourist information office next to the river. But, this is likely to be full in summer. The parking area most likely to have spaces is the one next to the church as you come into town off the N15. Keep spare change available for the parking meters.
Glencolmcille
Saint Columba, or the Glen of St. Colmcille, gives Glencolmcille its name. This grassy valley gives a distinct contrast to the boggy areas around it. From Killybegs or Kilcar, the area is easily reachable. The town affords Stone Age ruins, along with the renowned St. Columba Church, north of the village of Cashel. If you want to explore more of Donegal's unique place in Irish history, try the Folk Village Museum and Heritage Centre (074 973 0017) in Cashel, near the beach. Be sure to stock up on fudge, marmalade, and curious local wines! Consider taking your stock to one of the fine local beaches, such as those near Doonalt or Malinbeg. Open daily April–September. Admission is 2.50/4.
Arranmore Island
With a small population and spectacular scenery to boot, Arranmore Island (árainn Mhór) is one of Donegal's most famed locales to glimpse impressive sea caves and enjoy sandy beaches. The enjoyable Arranmore Way walk circumnavigates the island and offers nice views of the Green Island, a bird retreat. Visit the Arranmore Ferry (074 952 0532,
Tory Island
With an interesting history of resistance to move to the “mainland,” the inhabitants of Tory Island are artists, weavers, drivers, restaurant owners, and B&B owners. Some are still fishermen. Although the island is only a slight distance off the northwest coast of Donegal, east of Bloody Foreland Head, the residents maintain a unique presence, more reserved, yet equally dignified, when compared to their Irish counterparts. Irish is spoken by most of the islanders on a day-to-day basis, but everyone speaks English as well. The island has become famous for its idiosyncratic art form known as “naive art.” The island offers bird watching, the Tory School of Primitive Painters, and ceilidhs, which are music and dancing sessions of old. To get there, see
Fact
Surprisingly, Tory Island has its own monarch. Elected to the post in the mid-1990s, Patsy Dan Rogers has served as the official King of Tory for over a decade. While his post is anything but demanding, he does earn a small salary from his so-called subjects and still meets and greets travelers. He is an internationally renowned painter and a fun-loving storyteller. Read about him and see some of his artwork at
Rossnowlagh
In the last few years the secret tranquility that is Rossnowlagh (Ross Neamblach) has been made known. This beach spot is an ideal location to simply forget about it all for a couple of days. The area has several B&Bs, beachside bungalows, and hotels scattered throughout, especially closer to the touristy town of Bundoran, located nearly ten miles south. The beach of Rossnowlagh is a stunning example of other “Blue Flag” beaches that you can find dotted all around Donegal.
Fact
A “Blue Flag” is an international marker applied to beaches in over thirty countries. A beach or marina is labeled so after it has met the strict criteria of the nonprofit Foundation for Environmental Education (FEE). Upon review, the beach is tested in accordance to water quality, high environmental standards, and certain safety provisions.
Other Blue Flag beaches in Donegal can be found (moving north along the coast) in Bundoran, Murvagh, inside Rintra Bay, Gweebarra Bay, Kincasslagh, Sheephaven Bay, Portsalon, along Glengad Head in Inishowen Peninsula, and Inishowen Head. In the summer months, these beaches can be brimming with European holidaymakers, so book your accommodation ahead.
In Rossnowlagh, you can also visit the Donegal Historical Society Museum (071 985 2133) with surrounding gardens and forest. The museum and its collection, which is located in a friary, is quite small, but worthwhile if you want to view Stone Age equipment, local artifacts, and Irish instruments. Open daily, 10
Ballyshannon
The bustling small town of Ballyshannon (B éal átha Seanaidh) is better than Bundoran to base yourself for exploring south of Donegal Town. Set atop the River Erne, the town is still a gem, even if you are simply passing through. The real draw to the town, besides the quaint Georgian architecture lining the streets, is the grave of the acclaimed poet William Alling-ham (1824–89) at St. Anne's Church. Follow the signs from Main Street.
Additionally, just a drive outside of town, Assaroe Abbey (071 985 8966) still has its mill in working order and is now a noteworthy interpretative center. Follow the road signs to Abbey Mills (071 985 1580). Open June–September, Monday–Saturday, 11
Horn Head
Located near Dunfanaghy, which boasts the Killyhoey and Marbe Hill Beaches, Horn Head (Corrán Binne) reveals some fascinating aspects of Donegal County. It is teeming with birdlife, awe-inspiring coastal panoramas and, on a good day, offers views all the way to Scotland. Near here is the Ads Forest Park, offering marked trails, perfect for an afternoon picnic. A drive to the Doe Castle is advantageous for historical buffs. Wrecked sailors of the Spanish Armada used it as refuge in 1588. Thereafter, the castle changed hands between the feuding MacSweeney's and eventually was overtaken by the Irish. Cromwellian forces took it by surprise in 1650. It was inhabited until the mid-1800s before it was deserted. It is located only nine miles from Dunfanaghy.
