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Things to See and Do

The “Kingdom” of Kerry has lots to offer. From Killarney's sylvan edges to Dingle's cliff-side marvels, choices can be mixed and matched for all types of travelers.

Killarney National Park

Besides the Ring of Kerry, the Killarney National Park is Kerry's top tourist hotspot, especially for those who want to see rugged nature without having to necessarily experience it. The N71 road (connecting Killarney and Kenmare) cuts straight through the park, offering small pull-off areas giving way to spectacular views of the lakes dotting the horizon. The road takes about forty-five minutes to drive when traffic is flowing, but it can be gridlocked in July and August. On the road, you will come to the Ladies' View (where there is a caf é) and Moll's Gap viewpoints.

Getting to the entrance of the park is best achieved by parking at one of the lots off of the N71. One of the most central locations to stop is at the Torc Waterfall parking lot, which gives you access to color-coded trails on one side and roads leading to the Muckross Estate and Abbey on the other. Here, even with hail or high winds, you will find jarveys with Jaunting Cars waiting to take you for a spin.

To summit any of the local mountains (such as Carrantuohill, Ireland's tallest peak), you should consider going with a guide. Remember, the weather can change on a dime as you ascend, so be prepared with rain gear. It is recommended to start such an ascent off of the N72 at Cronin's Yard (064 34 936, www.croninsyard.com), which offers amenities such as toilets, a cozy tearoom, and some food items. The best guided tours are offered daily by Killarney Guided Walks (087 6394362, www.killarneyguidedwalks.com). Visit the Muckross House's information center for maps.

Killarney Lakes and Inisfallen

Labeled an official “Area of Outstanding Natural Beauty” and an official UNESCO Biosphere Reserve, Killarney National Park has three main lakes. Those are the Lough Leane (called the “Lake of Learning”), the Upper Lake, and Muckross Lake. One of the most popular spots is the Meeting of the Waters, where all three lakes converge. The best view is from Dinis Island, which requires a boat hire.

Lough Leane claims the largest island in the park at Inisfallen (accessible by boat from Ross Castle), where the Annals of Inisfallen was composed. The island still retains some noteworthy monuments of early Christian architecture, including a monastery founded by a famous seventh-century monk, Saint Finian the Leper.

Question

What is the Annals of Inisfallen? The Annals of Inisfallen is thought to be a part of the greater compilation within the Chronicle of Ireland. The writings, compiled for over 300 years starting in the 1200s, are evidence of how the surrounding “Lake of Learning” received its appellation. Currently housed in the Bodleian Library in Oxford, the people and government of Killarney have demanded its return.

Gap of Dunloe

Located just outside the park's actual parameters is the impressive Gap of Dunloe. Ideal for viewing the surrounding Macgillycuddy's Reeks and Purple Mountain ranges, the touristy thing to do in summer is to take a harnessed horse trot through the valley. A much better way to experience the canyon is via bike. To make it a full day trip, rent a bike in Killarney Town and bike to Ross Castle. From there, take a boat for a tour of the lake and islets to Lord Brandon's Cottage, followed by biking through the Gap and back down to Killarney on the N72. Day trips and other excursions can be hired with Gap of Dunloe Tours (064 30 200, www.gapofdunloetours.com).

Ross Castle

Standing strong against Cromwellian forces, Ross Castle (064 35 851) was finally overtaken in part due to the fulfillment of a prophecy. The prophecy assured that the fortification would only be taken from the water by an armed ship. In 1652 when Lud-low brought boats to Lough Leanne in order to attack, the Irish forces relinquished their stronghold knowing that a fight from the water would bring their demise. A tower house built by a member of the O'Donoghue Ross remains, as do four smaller turrets at each corner. Entrance by guided tour. Open daily April–October, 9:30 A.M.–5:30 P.M. Admission 2.50–4/6.

Muckross House, Traditional Farm, and Abbey

The Muckross House (064 31 440, www.muckross-house.ie) sits at the forefront of the Killarney Lakes. The seigneury was constructed in 1843 and inspired by Victorian design. Left to the state in the 1930s, the mansion is now a sort of showpiece displaying local furniture and art originating from Irish and foreign lands. The surrounding gardens are immaculately kept. Walking, cycling, or taking a Jaunting Car around Muckross Lake is quite scenic. Estate open daily, July–August, 9:00 A.M.–7:00 P.M.; September–June, 9:00 A.M.–5:30 P.M. Closed during the Christmas period. Admission 3–5.50/7. Combination tickets available.

Muckross Traditional Farms

The Muckross Traditional Farms are a duplication of Kerry's farms of old. Especially fun for families, the place has done a masterful job of re-creating what farming was like before the advent of electricity and modern machinery. Families live and work here, kids and animals run amok, and the smell of homemade food truly sets the scene for all the senses. Visitors can also peek in on the carpenter and blacksmith shops. Open daily in May, 1 P.M.–6 P.M., and June–August, 10 A.M.–6 P.M. Saturday–Sunday only in April and September–October, 1 P.M.–6 P.M. Closed November–March. Admission 4–6/7.50.

Alert

Moving father west in Kerry will bring you to greater Irish Gaelic–speaking areas. In farther-removed corners and especially Dingle, expect to find road and warning signs only in Irish. Inhabitants have raised complaints over the government's changing road signs to the made-up name An Daingean instead of what everyone knows as Dingle.

Muckross Abbey

The Muckross Abbey (or Friary) is 1.5k (1 mile) away and is of more historical significance than the manor. Founded in the 1440s, parts were constructed and inhabited intermittently. The impressive tower is as big as the church and the colonnade contains a yew tree at the center with variegated arcades at each side. Cromwellian forces burned a good portion of it in 1652. Open all year.

The Ring of Kerry

The magnetic draw of the Ring of Kerry (the Iveragh Peninsula) is its pure Irish beauty and historical significance. Showcased in travel documentaries and in articles for decades, it is Kerry's most renowned region. The outer extremity of the peninsula tends to go untouched by bigger vehicles and a route of biking or driving including the inner sanctums of the peninsula on uncluttered back roads is an otherworldly experience. It is the largest peninsula in southwest Ireland.

If you are driving alone, consider a counter-clockwise route, as you will be able to look out the window to view the scenery. If others are with you, a clockwise circuit will allow the passengers full views. No matter your route, review a map beforehand, start early, and keep in mind that buses have the right of way.

Along the N70, you will run into Sneem, a small town just west of Kenmare that has some nice spots to explore, but farther along is Staigue Fort. The circle fort exemplifies fort construction in Ireland and is possibly the best in the country. With walls 5 meters (18 feet) high and 4 meters (13 feet) thick, the fort is best appreciated after a quick visit to the exhibition hall, which accepts donations.

Continuing the route west outside Derrynane Town is the Derrynane House, which dates from the 1600s. Home to Daniel O'Connell, who sparked Ireland to fight for its rights without violence, the area is now a National Historic Park. Audiovisual shows are available that describe O'Connell's political struggles. Farther along is Cahersiveen, which has access to Valentia Island and the Skellig Islands (see below). Glenbeigh is the next town, where you can visit the Kerry Bog Village (066 976 9184, www.kerrybogvillage.ie), which re-creates the rural, austere mode of living in olden days. Finally, on the N72, is Killorglin Town, resting in one of Kerry's most delightful settings. The annual Puck Fair Festival (066 976 2366, www.puckfair.ie) takes place in August and fills the streets with theater, good food, and (strange enough) a live goat mounted on a pedestal at the town center, adorned with ribbons. Definitely book accommodations well in advance.

Alert

For a trip to the Skellig, bring a minimum of 50 per person cash for boat trips (and tip). ATMs are harder to locate in these regions. Bring wind-and waterproof wear, along with extra clothes. Pack a picnic lunch, but try not to eat too much before the initial crossing. Seasickness is common.

Skellig Islands

Accessible from Portmagee and Valentia (Oileán Dairbhre), the Skellig Islands (Oileán na Scealaga) are best experienced early in the day as laws restrict the numbers of visitors allowed. The best time to visit is between May and September, although boats start accepting clients at Easter. Book ahead if possible, but especially in July and August. Call up any number of operators, including local historian Des Lavelle (066 947 6124) in Portmagee or Eoin Walsh (066 947 6327 or 087 283 3522) on Valentia Island. Tours tend to last from 10 A.M. until 3 P.M. Ensure that your tour enables you to walk around Skellig Michael to see the seventh-century monastic sights and modern lighthouses.

Fact

The Skellig Islands are an avid avifauna viewer's paradise. With Mother Carey's chickens flying about, kittiwakes, and puffins, the islands are a popular birder's destination. Notwithstanding, a trip to the islands might be one of the best adventures in all of Ireland.

A trip to the Skellig Islands is better appreciated after visiting the Skellig Experience (066 947 6306, www.skelligexperience.com), which details the life and times of the monks who once inhabited the islands. The exhibit also includes more detailed information regarding the area's wildlife.

Dingle Peninsula

The otherworldly delight of Dingle (An Daingean) makes you feel a million miles away from happening Killarney. Dingle is a place for those wanting refuge from the masses to truly experience the Gaeltacht way of life.

Dingle Town is home to nearly 2,000 inhabitants and its charming placidity make it quite popular in July and August. With a picturesque port, views of rolling hills and ridgelines, fun-loving locals, bookshops, caf és, quaint B&Bs, and a centrally located tourist shop, not much else to ask for remains.

Essential

A bottle-full of fun comes from this bottlenose delight: Fungie the Dolphin. When the fishermen of Dingle started noticing a lone dolphin enjoying the company of people company more than his own kind, they nicknamed him Fungie. Now, you can even arrange to swim with the convivial ocean-dweller. Contact the Brosnan's (066 915 2626, www.dingledolphin.com) for gear and information.

Exploring the Dingle Peninsula can be done in a short amount of time. One noteworthy, yet hair-raising drive (only on a clear day) is through Conor's Pass, offering dazzling views of the peninsula and harbor. If you have time to spare, the eight-to ten-day walking tour along the 180km (290-mile) Dingle Way (www.dingleway.net) is stunning. Grab the Dingle Way Map Guide from the tourist office before setting out. The shorter 48km (30-mile) Pilgrim's Route connects the peninsula's sites and ends with an arduous climb up Mt. Brandon.

For those with less time, driving or biking the rewarding Slea Head (Ceann Sl éibe) 40km (25-mile) route around the R559 proffers a greater amount of sights in less distance than anywhere else in the country. These include the Dunbeg Fort (An Aún Beag), the Slea Head cross, the village of Ballyferriter (Baile an Fheir éaraigh), the monastic settlement of Riasc (An Riasc), the drystone church of the Gallarus Oratory (S éip éilin Ghallrois), and the Kilmalkedar (Cill Maolch éadair) church and graveyard.

Blasket Islands

Accessible and viewable from Dunquin, the westernmost islands in Europe are the Blasket Islands (Na Blascaodaí). Great Blasket (An Blascaod Mór) was inhabited until 1953 and is worth a day's exploration. The Blasket Center (Ionad an Bhlascaoid Mhóir; 066 915 6444) offers a magnificent display of the area's rich past and is recommended before venturing out to sea.

Beara Peninsula (Ring of Beara)

Made up partially of County Kerry and Cork combined, the Beara Peninsula is a rarely explored gem that radiates with quaint villages and open heath. Known for its bootlegging past in the French Brandy trade, the Beara has stunning countryside. Most noteworthy is Healy Pass grafting its way through the Caha Mountains and Hungry Hill. For those serious about walking, the 196km (310-mile) Beara Way (www.bearaway.net) should suffice nicely. Additionally, the Beara Way Cycle Route beckons those who want to accomplish a truly rustic feat.

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