County Galway is a chock-a-block of sights, sounds, and history. While Galway City is west Ireland's most happening town, regions such as Connemara, Joyce Country, and the Aran Islands all offer visitors a unique blend of tradition and steady progress.

Connemara

A majority of County Galway's interior is made up of the vastness that is Connemara (www.connemara.ie), which also includes the Connemara National Park. The Connemara region extends west of Galway to the Atlantic, and the boggy interior gives way northward to rolling hills and dome-topped mountains known as the Twelve Bens.

Moving west from Galway City along the R336, R343, and R340, you will encounter the small fishing hamlets of Spiddal (An Spid éal), Carraroe (An Cheathrú), and others around Mace Head.

The most splendid town in the area is Roundstone (Cloch na Rón; www.roundstone.ie) near Bertraghboy Bay. This vibrant, artsy hangout is full in the summer, but getting away is easy by walking, fishing, or sailing. The Roundstone Arts Week (www.roundstoneartsweek.net) takes place at the end of June each year.

Exploring Connemara

To the north along the N59, the town of Oughterard (Uachtar árd) offers the county's best fishing, as well as the Glengowla Mines (091 552 360, open March–November, daily, 10 A.M.–6 P.M.). The Aughnanure Castle (091 552 214; open April–October, daily, 9:30 A.M.–6 P.M.) is a six-story gem with two defensive walls (called badhun) that was a ruling hub of the O'Flaherty clan. Additionally, the Quiet Man Bridge, made famous in the John Wayne film The Quiet Man, is a great spot for photos if you can beat the tour buses.

Clifden: A Base for Exploration

Connemara's capital town is Clifden (An Clochán). Bustling in comparison to the aforementioned villages, it has its own allure. Walking or biking the Sky Road is one way to appreciate the landscape; other walks are outlined at the Connemara Walking Centre (095 21 379) off of Market Street, which also offers the Michael Gibbons Walking Ireland Tours, specializing in archaeological and historical outings. Or, contact Connemara Safari (095 21 071, www.walkingconnemara.com) for longer excursions and island hopping adventures. West Ireland Cycling (091 588 830, www.westirelandcycling.com) off of Upper Dominic Street in Galway City offer unique cycling packages.

Killary Adventure Center

A company gaining notable recognition over the years, the Killary Adventure Centre (095 43 411, www.killaryadventure.com) offers innumerable activities for kids and adults alike. Located just outside of Leenane, they also have an on-site hostel (dorm 20–25 per person) and B&B ( 35–50 per person). From kayaking to bungee jumping to tranquil guided walks, this is a great place to meet fellow travelers and to get your adrenaline pumping. Private groups welcome. Half-day/full-day activities: 40 per person/ 85 per person.

Connemara National Park

Located on the edge of Letterfrack, the Connemara National Park (095 41 054, www.connemaranationalpark.ie) has a superb visitor center that gives way to gravel and board-walked nature trails through the boggy terrain. Four of Connemara's Twelve Bens are contained within its 2,000-hectare (5,000-acre) boundaries.

Before venturing out on one of the three well-marked trails, check out the visitor center to read up on the flora and fauna of the region; the film you can watch there is a noteworthy addition. The vistas from the upper parameters afford awe-inspiring views of Kylemore Abbey and Lough, as well as Ballynakill Harbour. Park open all year. Visitor Centre open April–May and September to mid-October, 10 A.M.–5:30 P.M.; June, 10 A.M.–6:30 P.M.; July–August, 9:30 A.M.–6:30 P.M. Admission free.

Kylemore Abbey

The Gothically inspired Kylemore Abbey (095 411 146, www.kylemoreabbey.com) jumps out quite unexpectedly on the drive between Leenane and Letterfrack. Beckoning further exploration, the Kylemore (meaning “big wood”) estate is made up of an abbey, neo-Gothic cathedral, Victorian garden, and a lone mausoleum with a story all its own.

The castle was converted to an abbey in the 1920s; fourteen nuns currently live, worship, and run a convent school for girls here. While a good portion of the abbey is closed to visitors, five impressive rooms display part of its lavish interior and the chapel makes a nice photo stop. The well-done visitor center runs buses to and from the gardens. A restaurant and pottery shop are also on hand. In 2010, the convent school was closed; the rest of the estate has thus far remained unaffected. Open all year, 9:00 A.M.–5:30 P.M. Garden closed November to mid-March. Admission 7/12.

Inishbofin

Truly removed Inishbofin (Inis Bó Finne; www.inishbofin.com) has a placid, surreal ambiance. Located about 10km (6 miles) off of Connemara's northwest tip, the island is inhabited by 200 humble Irish souls making up five different villages. The island boasts amazing beaches, with scuba diving and snorkeling available. Excellent two-or three-hour walks can be had around the western or northern sides; bicycle rentals are also available at the main pier. Inishbofin is accessible from the town of Cleggan. Ferries run all year on varying schedules, so visit the website for specifics. Island Discovery (095 45 819/894, www.inishbofinislanddiscovery.com) and Inishbofin Ferries (095 45 806/903/831) offer service from Cleggan. The Dun Aengus mail boat departs Cleggan Monday–Saturday at 11:30 A.M. Purchase tickets for the Dun Aengus at the Spar Grocery Store in Cleggan. City Link (www.citylink.ie) buses connect Galway, Clifden, Letterfrack, and Cleggan.

Aran Islands

The Aran Islands (www.aranislands.ie) are composed of three main islands: the largest, Inishmor (árainn), the medium-sized Inishmaan (Inis Meáin), and the smaller yet more populated Inish-eer (Inis Oírr). The tranquil islands top the list for travelers looking to get away, to historically explore, and to hear the chiming of Gaelic amongst the steadfast Irish islanders.

Historically, each island has played an important role in Celtic history. The islands are so removed and desolate that Christian monks could not resist settling there. They began occupying the islands and building beehive stone huts as early as the fifth century. Later inhabitants perpetuated their existence with sustenance farming techniques that turned the Burren-like terrain into arable land. The thousands of kilometers of renowned stone wall help to not only mark plots, but also to keep the wind from uprooting precious crops. The best sights and activities on each island are outlined in the following sections.

Inishmor

Most tourists arrive to the main port of Kilronan in Inishmor. The tourist office and Aran Heritage Centre (099 61 355) are great points from which to begin exploring. Numerous sights are accessible by walking, cycling, or hiring a driver or pony trap. The islands are hilly, so only the fit should consider walking or cycling. The famed 2,000-year old Dún Aengus fort is the most popular site; lined with stone spikes to ward off enemies, it sits on the edge of a 90-meter (300-foot) cliff face. While a great photo spot, parents should be aware that the sheer drop has no protective barrier, so keep an eye on children. The more-deserted but as-impressive Dún Dúchathair, known as the Black Fort, is a thirty-minute walk from Dún Aengus. The Clochán na Car-raige, with surrounding Na Seacht Teampaill (the seven churches), is the island's most famous scattering of monuments.

Inishmaan

The least-visited island, Inishmaan is not as developed as the other two isles. While the friendly locals love tourists, an adventure here is truly a step back in time. The most-frequented sights include the Teach Synge cottage, where writer J. M. Synge spent his summers, and the Dún Chonchuir, the oval-shaped fort in the center of the island.

Inisheer

Inisheer (www.inisoirr-island.com) is a true gem. It is located just 10km (6 miles) from the coastline of Doolin, County Clare. Navigating the island by bike is a great way to visit such sites as O'Brien's Castle, a fifteenth-century inner stronghold, and the Teampall Chaomháin, known as the Church of St. Kevin, which bestows its greatest appeal at sunset. A 10km (6-mile) marked walk begins behind the beach and in front of the soccer field.

Getting to and from the Aran Islands

Flying to the Aran Islands is feasible from the Connemara Airport in Minna, near Inverin (Indreabhán). Aer Arann (091 593 034, www.aerarannislands.ie) has one-way, roundtrip, and scenic flights available daily. Prices are 25/37/45 roundtrip.

Aran Island Ferries (091 568 903 or 091 572 273, www.aranislandferries.com) depart from Rossaveal. Timetable departures vary according to the season. Ferry crossings to Inishmore (or to Inishmaan or Inisheer) from Rossaveal are 13/25 and a bus transfer (one hour) there from Galway City is 2.50/3.50/4.

Aran Direct (091 506 786 or 091 566 535, www.arandirect.com) also operates ferries to the islands, providing a direct route from Galway City (with offices at 124 Eyre Square or 29 Forster Street) and transfers via bus ( 4/6/7) to Rossaveal (one hour) and then to the islands. Newly scheduled departures on the high-speed catamaran christened the Aran Princess are detailed on the website. Prices from Rossaveal are 15/20/25 roundtrip.

Aran Island Hopping

Traveling intra-islands can be tricky. Both ferry companies operate direct-only routes to each of the islands from Rossaveal. In theory, this means returning to Rossaveal to go onward to other islands. However, Doolin Ferries (065 707 4455/466, www.doolinferries.com) does travel intra-island according to demand and weather (see Chapter 12, which outlines departures from Doolin to the Aran Islands). They tend to depart from the Inish-more dock at 11 A.M. and will stop at other islands on their way back to Doolin, County Clare. Price is 15 one way.

Cars are not transported to the islands, nor are rentals an option. Mainland parking is available at the Rossaveal pier for 10 per day. Make sure to book plane or ferry tickets in advance if you plan to travel during the summer months. Check www.aranislands.ie for a listing of festivals and events.