Doolin and Lisdoonvarna by Thomas Hollowell and Katie Kelly Bell
In Doolin, the epicenter of Ireland's traditional music, you will find wayfarers from far and wide. In fact, there are more hotels, hostels, and B&Bs than residential homes. The famous O'Connors Pub (065 707 4168) near the harbor, and McGann's (065 707 4133) have nightly sessions of Irish folk tunes. For those looking for something even more remote, the small town of Kilfenora (Cill Fhionnúrach) offers traditional music sessions, especially in the summer months. Lisdoonvarna (Lios Dún Bhearna) has more in the way of restaurants and amenities than Doolin. Lisdoon-varna is home to the Matchmaking Festival (065 707 4005, www.matchmakerireland.com) each September, made famous in the 1997 film The Matchmaker.
Getting to the Aran Islands
Getting to the Aran Islands, County Galway, from Doolin is possible on Doolin Ferry (065 707 5555 or 065 707 1710, www.doolinferry.com) or the more frequent Aran Doolin (065 707 4455, www.doolinferries.com) when the weather and tides are cooperating. You can call ahead to ensure departures, but oftentimes lines are not answered if boats are running. On fair-weather days, wait at the Doolin port before the 10 A.M. or 1 P.M. departures to hop on a boat. Bring cash to the islands for hotel, meals, and boat cost ( 15 per person, one-way). Ferries run to Inisheer (the smallest island) first and to Inishmor (the biggest island) last. If boats are not running, you can count on departures from Galway City and Rossaveal (Ros an Mhíl), County Galway (Chapter 13). The crossing can be rough with significant swells at times, so if you get seasick, come prepared.
Kilrush and Scattery Island
A visit to the town of Kilrush (Cill Rois) and Kilrush Marina (065 905 2072, www.kilrushcreekmarina.ie) followed by a boat trip to Scattery Island make a pleasant trip in the southwest of Clare. Scattery, named after a monster that supposedly once inhabited the isle, is rich in history due to the numerous groups who have vied and died for it. The grounds contain the best round tower in Ireland, as well as the ruins of various medieval churches. The visitor center is open daily. Call Scattery Island Ferries (065 905 1327) for departure times.
Fact
The fabled monster of Scattery was known as “the Cathach.” Currently illustrated on the chapel of Kilrush, he was thought to be a sea serpent. At the arrival of Saint Senan, the monster became stupefied. Climbing the highest hill, Senan ordered the monster to flee. Cathach is said to have yielded to the commandment and retreated to Doo-lough Lake.
