This rich gratin is a luxurious side dish to roast chicken or baked ham, and it makes a substantial tapas vegetable dish. The panko (Japanese-style) breadcrumbs add a crispy texture.

• Preheat oven to 375°F. Butter the bottom and sides of a gratin dish.

• Cut the dark green leaves of the leek off, then cut it almost in half lengthwise, but stop 2 to 3 inches above the root.

• Under running water, rinse the sand and dirt out of the layers of the leek. Shake off excess water and cut the roots off.

• Next, cut the leek into 2-inch-wide pieces across the grain. Arrange the leeks in the buttered gratin dish and season with salt and pepper. Pour the cream over the leeks and then sprinkle the breadcrumbs over them and season with nutmeg.

• Bake 45 minutes to 1 hour, until bubbly and browned.

Baby Leeks . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Baby leeks make a good tapa when they are grilled and then served cold with a Dijon mustard and pink peppercorn vinaigrette.