This luxurious tapa is sliced to share. No need for steak knives. Substitute chopped flat-leaf parsley for the chervil if unavailable.

• Crack the peppercorns in one layer on a cutting board with the bottom of a heavy pan. Lean on it, don't hammer it. Sprinkle the salt on the filet, then press the meat into the peppercorns to coat both sides.

• Melt the butter in a small, heavy, stainless steel sauté pan over medium-high heat until very hot. Swirl it around and let it sizzle, then brown the filet in it 4 minutes per side.

• Remove the filets and keep them in a warm oven while preparing the sauce. On zero heat, add 2 tablespoons of cognac to the pan and carefully ignite the alcohol with a firestick. When the flames die down, turn the heat to medium and stir the liquid in the skillet, scraping up any browned bits from the bottom.

• Add the cream and bring the pan sauce to a simmer. Cook and swirl until the sauce begins to thicken, maybe 3 minutes. Add the teaspoon of cognac, stir, and taste to see if you need additional salt. Return the filet to the pan, and cook it 30 seconds per side in the sauce.

• Slice the filet and plate it. Spoon the pan sauce over it and crumble the blue cheese on top. Garnish with the sprigs of chervil.