This is the kind of omelet used to make tamago nigiri sushi. A square Japanese omelet pan is traditionally used to make this tasty sweet egg mixture.

• Beat the eggs with the sugar, salt, water, and rice wine in a bowl.

• Heat the oil in a nonstick 6-inch sauté pan over medium-high heat.

• Pour half of the egg mixture into the hot pan and swirl it around to coat the pan. Lower the heat to medium and cook until the edges are sizzling and the center is set.

• Flip the omelet out onto a cutting board and return the pan to the heat. Add the rest of the egg mixture to the pan.

• Roll the cooked omelet like a cigar and put it in the end of the pan farthest away from you, on top of the egg batter. Cook the omelet until the edges are again sizzling and the center is set. Remove from heat and roll the first omelet up into the second one and lay the roll on a cutting board. Let cool to room temperature.

• Cut the omelet into a rectangle by cutting off the rounded ends. Wrap in plastic and chill. To serve, cut the rectangle into ½-inch-thick slices and use in sushi making.