Cockles are very tiny clams, the size of a thumbnail. When you can find a source of good fresh cockles, consider yourself blessed! They are mild, not strong, and absolutely delicious. Serve with a spoon for the juice and a tiny fork to get the little morsels out of the shells. Also have a big bowl on the table to hold the empty shells.

• Heat the oil and butter in a large sauté pan over medium heat. Stir in the garlic and shallots. Cook until softened.

• Add the clam broth, bring to a boil, and stir in the oregano and clams. Keep stirring, using a slotted spoon to remove the cockles to a large bowl as they open.

• When all of the cockles are open, pour the sauce over them. Drain the pasta and serve in bowls. Spoon cockles over the linguini and sprinkle with parsley.

Cockles and Mussels, Alive, Alive-O

Cockles are finally becoming available in supermarket fish departments. You'll find yourself dining pleasurably and slowly when you prepare these tiny treats. All mollusks are an important part of a sugar-free diet. They are satisfying and have a slightly sweet flavor.