Experimenting with Color
In order for you to predict with as much accuracy as possible the way a colorant will perform in a batch of soap, you must test it. You can, in general, assume that colorants created for soapmaking will behave the way the manufacturer and distributor say they will. However, in soapmaking, colorants will behave differently depending on the nature of the soapmaking technique. For example, casting soap has a different effect on color material than cold process. Usually. Some colorants perform predictably no matter what technique you use.
Scent Materials Have Color, Too
There are also chemical changes that occur. Some fragrance materials will change the color of a soap mixture. Most notably, vanilla fragrances, even the “non-discoloring” ones, will make your soap brown. There is a lot of resistance to accepting a vanilla soap in this color, as most people are used to vanilla being white, as in vanilla ice cream. The vanillin in the fragrance is naturally brown and covers all soap shades of brown ranging from light tan to dark “chocolate” brown.
Colorant Behavior
Food colors stay true in casting soap, but some behave differently in the presence of lye. Most food colorants are not lightfast, meaning they will fade when exposed to light, even indoor light. All colors will fade somewhat in light, especially sunlight, but some are more light-stable than others.
A usually unwanted effect that happens mostly in soap projects made with food and cosmetic colors is “bleeding.” A color is said to bleed when it migrates from where it was put to surrounding locations. Red colorants are notorious for bleeding. Primary colors made with pure pigments tend to bleed more than others.
Mineral pigments tend to be the most lightfast. Micas, in general, are next in terms of lightfastness, followed by cosmetic dyes and food colorants. All these are variable, depending on the kind of soap and conditions to which the finished soap is exposed.
Color Studies
Making a set of reference samples is a great way to help you when you're determining which colors to use for a project. Test colors in all the different kinds of soap you'll be making. Test them at various stages of the processes and as always, keep records of everything.
To do these color studies, you'll divide the plain soap into as many portions as you have colors you want to try. Small disposable paper cups are good molds for these tiny sample bars. When the soap is hard, you simply tear away the paper.
Mineral Pigments
You'll find that the pigments go a long way. Some of them are very difficult to clean up, especially red oxide, which will get on everything if it spills. Make notes on how each color behaved, how easy or how difficult it was to incorporate, and the depth of the color created by the amount of pigment you used.
Micas
As with other types of color, it's helpful to experiment with micas, too. Bear in mind that some micas are not suitable for use in cold-process soap because the lye causes the color to disappear. Responsible mica suppliers will let you know which micas don't work in cold process.
Herbs, Spices, and Food Colorants
There are many herbs, spices, and other food-related products you can use as natural colorants. The colors will be more subtle than mineral pigments, and the powders will show up as fine speckles.
Gel Colors
Gel colors work most effectively in soap-casting applications, for which they were designed. Nevertheless, it is worth experimenting with them in cold process. You can often achieve a pleasing result. Depending on the ingredients in the gel colorant, it may or may not hold up against the lye. The colors tested are from TKB Trading. Those listed are just an example of what is available. Test colors that you'll actually use.
Experimenting with Mineral Pigments
1-pound batch of the recipe you wish to test
Ultramarine blue
Ultramarine pink
Chromium oxide green (yellow-green)
Hydrated chromium oxide (blue-green)
Yellow oxide
Red oxide
Divide your test batch into six 4-ounce portions at light trace. Use a plastic ½-cup measure to scoop out the traced soap. You can, of course, make as many as you need.
Add teaspoon of pigment to 1 teaspoon of warm water. Stir it well and crush any lumps.
Add 2 tablespoons of traced soap to the colorant mixture and blend it until the color is completely incorporated.
Scoop it back into the rest of the portion and mix completely.
Pour it into the mold and move on to the next portion, repeating the procedure for each color.
1-pound batch of the recipe you wish to test
Pearlescent blue mica
Gold mica
Emerald green mica
White sparkle mica
Lavender mica
Bronze mica
Divide your test batch into six 4-ounce portions at light trace. Use a plastic ½-cup measure to scoop out the traced soap. You can, of course, make as many as you need.
Add teaspoon mica to 1 teaspoon warm water. Stir it well and crush any lumps.
Add 2 tablespoons of the traced soap to the colorant mixture and blend it until the color is completely incorporated.
Return it to the rest of the portion and mix completely.
Pour it into the mold and move on to the next portion, repeating the procedure for each color.
Experimenting with Herbs, Spices, and Food Colorants
1-pound batch of the recipe you wish to test
Turmeric
Paprika
Finely ground coffee
Cocoa powder
Divide your test batch into six 4-ounce portions at light trace. Use a plastic ½-cup measure to scoop out the traced soap. You can, of course, make as many as you need.
Add 1 teaspoon colorant to 1 tablespoon of boiling water. Let it steep until the color develops.
Strain and reserve 1 teaspoon of the infusion in a small mixing bowl.
Add 2 tablespoons of the traced soap to the colorant infusion and blend it until the color is completely incorporated.
Return it to the rest of the portion and mix completely.
Pour it into the mold and move on to the next portion, repeating the procedure for each colorant.
1-pound batch of the recipe you wish to test
Blessing Blue
Neon Orange
Logwood
3X Chinese Rose
Amethyst
Fading Green
Divide your test batch into six 4-ounce portions at light trace. Use a plastic ½-cup measure to scoop out the traced soap. You can, of course, make as many as you need.
Place a teaspoon of each gel colorant into a small mixing cup.
Add 2 tablespoons of the traced soap to the colorant and blend until the color is completely incorporated.
Return it to the rest of the portion and mix completely.
Pour it into the mold and move on to the next portion, repeating the procedure for each color.
Food Colors
Food colors are made in so many different ways, you have to test them in cold-process soap to know what's going to happen. Some blues and greens tend to turn violet or other shades of purple. Food colors are not at all light-fast, so they will fade, especially if exposed to sunlight.
Experimenting with Food Colors
1-pound batch of the recipe you wish to test
Blue food coloring
Red food coloring
Yellow food coloring
Green food coloring
Divide your test batch into six 4-ounce portions at light trace. Use a plastic ½-cup measure to scoop out the traced soap. You can, of course, make as many as you need.
Add 5 to 10 drops of colorant to the traced soap portion and stir well.
Pour it into the mold and move on to the next portion, repeating the procedure for each color.
