Setting Up the Classic Portrait
Since backgrounds are secondary when taking classic portraits, you can shoot them just about anywhere. Since you'll be shooting with a wide aperture to blur the background, find a spot where the background color and light will enhance the subject without distracting colors or patterns.
Classic portraits usually look best if you position your camera a few inches higher than the subject's eyes. This puts the subject's body and head at a flattering angle and puts the eyes at a pleasant spot in the frame. But this is by no means the only camera angle to use. Shooting upward can emphasize the individual's stature or balance unflattering up-light if you're shooting outside. It can also put a different-colored backdrop behind the subject, such as an arbor. Using a high camera angle and shooting down at a subject can make a heavy person look slimmer. Experimentation is the only way to discover the best approach to use in each individual instance.
Not filling the frame with the subject and leaving too much space above the head are common errors in snapshot portraits. Avoid them by putting the eyes at the upper one-third line. Leave just enough room above the head so it isn't crammed against the top of the frame. Back up or zoom out as needed.
Faces look best when viewed at a distance of six to eight feet. Get closer than that and the nose appears larger and the ears smaller. Move farther away and there is a loss of connection between the subject and the photographer. Greater distance can also mean the face is slightly distorted by compression (which results from the absence of some visual cues about depth and perspective). Whether your image will include just your subject's eyes or be a complete head and shoulders shot, keeping in the six-to-eight-foot range will give you the best results. Full-length shots can be done at greater distances with no problems.
The best lens choice for shooting classic portraits is one with a focal length that's about twice the length of a camera's normal lens. For 35mm cameras, a lens with a focal length between 85mm and 135mm (short telephoto) fits the bill for several reasons: It shows people's faces with the least amount of distortion; and it also allows you to fill the frame with your subject without having to be too close for comfort. A zoom with an even longer focal length, say up to 135mm or 150mm, will let you get even tighter detail shots without having to move in.
Don't use a wide-angle or normal lens for classic portraits. They cause too much distortion of facial features, creating warped images that are terribly unflattering to the subject.
Shooting with your lens's largest aperture will give you the shallow depth of field you need to isolate your subject from the background.
In the classic portrait, the subject can make eye contact with the viewer or be absorbed in a book. A seated subject is usually the easiest way to do a head and shoulder portrait. Your subject should sit in a seat without the visual distractions of arms or back.
How you light your subject will have a great deal to do with the mood and tenor of the final picture. If you're after a pensive, introspective look, try lighting your subject from the side. If you're shooting indoors, try to use natural lighting whenever possible. If necessary, use a tripod and make a long exposure. Window light can help make some of the most pleasing pictures.
For more on various lighting techniques, turn to Chapter 10.
