Linguine with white clam sauce (see Chapter 4) is a wonderful dish, blending the perfume of the sea with the earthy fragrance of garlic. But it is only the beginning. Virtually any type of seafood can share a recipe with pasta. Oriental cultures have been doing it for centuries. Italians use the frutti di mare, fruits from the sea, with nearly all of the famous sauces—garlic and oil, tomato, béchamel, and pesto. Beyond the basic sauces, seafood appears here with eggplant and wild mushrooms, cabbage and spinach, goat cheese, and even pistachios. Salmon, tuna, shrimp, crawfish, calamari, clams, mussels, and even caviar nestle in raviolis, cling among the curls of fusilli, and rest on strands of vermicelli.

