In the history of maccheroni, cold was not a virtue—until the pasta salad. Noodles rinsed in cool water maintain their integrity no matter what they are mixed with. Sauced with peanuts, flavored with fruit and oils, paired with seafood or chicken or meat, fresh vegetables or greens, pasta at room temperature has a satisfying assertiveness. In fact, it is important never to dress a pasta salad until serving, because, left to stand, the noodles will absorb too much of the dressing, The recipes here feature the full gamut: from Asian noodles to fresh, dried, and stuffed pastas, all with dressings heightened by coolness.

