This Osso Buco recipe is a hybrid, combining today's tradition of adding tomatoes and the nineteenth-century Milanese practice of using allspice and cinnamon. It's usually served with a rich risotto made with saffron, heavy cream, and Parmigiano-Reggiano.

1. Add the flour to a large plastic bag and season with a generous amount of salt and pepper; add the veal shanks to the bag and shake to coat them.

2. Bring the oil to temperature in a large ovenproof Dutch oven over medium heat; add the butter and swirl it around the pan to melt. Remove the veal shanks from the plastic bag, tap off any excess flour, and then add them to the pan. Use tongs to turn the shanks until all sides are a rich brown caramel color. Remove the browned veal shanks to a side plate.

3. Preheat the oven to 375°F.

4. Add the onion, celery, carrots, and garlic to the Dutch oven; sauté for 10 minutes, or until the vegetables start to get some color and develop a intense aroma. Add the veal shanks back to the pan. Pour in the wine; reduce the heat and simmer for 20 minutes, or until the wine is reduced by half.

5. Stir in the broth, tomatoes, cinnamon, allspice, and bay leaves. Cover and bake for 1 ½ hours. Uncover and continue to bake for an additional 30 minutes, or until the veal is tender and nearly falling off the bone. Remove and discard the bay leaves.

6. Transfer the meat to a serving platter, cover and keep warm. Put the Dutch oven over medium heat and bring the pan juices to a boil. Skim off and discard any fat. Cook for about 20 minutes, or until the sauce has thickened and coats the back of a spoon. Stir in the parsley and orange and lemon zests.

7. Taste for seasoning and add additional salt, pepper, cinnamon, and/or allspice, if needed. Simmer for another 5 minutes, then pour over the meat and serve immediately.