Essential Supplies
The number and variety of supplies for dogs and puppies can be somewhat overwhelming. Don't sweat about it too much. You will also find that different dogs will need different things. Consult with your breeder for any special items your puppy may need. To get you started, though, you should have supplies on hand before your puppy comes to your home. Remember, you want to make the transition to your home as easy as possible for your pup, and that means the fewer distractions, the better. With the following supplies on hand and assigned their places, you'll be prepared:
Appropriate food
Bowls for food and water
Collar and leash
Bed
Crate or carrier
ID tag
Toys
Grooming supplies (brush, nail clipper, toothbrush and paste, shampoo)
Your puppy must have at least one dog bed that is hers alone. You may find it's helpful to have one in each room where you spend a lot of time so there is always an appropriate place for your pup — like this Shetland Sheepdog — to snuggle up beside you.
As far as food goes, if you really want to understand what's best to put in your puppy's bowl, read Chapter 8. In it you'll learn how to understand the multimillion dollar business of dog food and how to navigate the choices to provide what's healthiest for your puppy.
In the meantime, if you're getting your puppy from a breeder, that person will most likely insist that you continue feeding the food your pup has been eating all along. This will make life easier for you and for your pup, as you won't have to worry about upsetting his tummy (and the consequences of that). Study your options before switching.
Of course, your pup will need a bowl out of which to eat — and choosing one can feel as overwhelming as finding the right food! There are so many types and styles. You bought this book to find out what's best, so here's the deal: buy stainless steel or crockery. Stainless steel is lightweight, durable, and very easy to clean. For messy, inquisitive puppies, stainless steel bowls are often the only ones with a wide, slip-proof base and a rim that's not too high — the last thing you want is a bowl that the pup can push all over, that tips easily, or — worst of all — can be chewed. A crockery (pottery) bowl is usually heavy enough that it can't be pushed around, and it's certainly easy to clean. These can be quite attractive, too. Their only drawback is that they can have high rims and food can sometimes get stuck along the inside edges.
Avoid plastic dog bowls. They are often the least expensive and may appear to be perfectly suitable for your needs. You'll regret your decision, though, should your puppy develop a habit of chewing on the bowl, or when he steps on it the wrong way and it goes flying because it doesn't weigh much. Worst of all, there are now warnings about the phthalates in plastics that can be potentially hazardous to one's health — but especially that of puppies (and children).
A Collar, a Leash, and a Tag
There are many types of collars. The three most popular are the traditional buckle collar; the choke chain or slip collar; and the pronged training collar. For your pup's first collar, you should choose a sturdy buckle collar. You can find them made out of everything from the finest leather to patterned or plain nylon and, for the eco-conscious, organic cotton or hemp or even recycled rubber.
Your pup's first collar can be thinner, too, as you won't want something too heavy around his delicate (and growing) neck. Collars are measured in inches, and to buy the size that's best, be sure to measure your pup's neck. Buy a collar that's slightly larger than that so you can adjust the size if necessary.
How tight should the pup's collar be?
To fit properly, your pup's collar should be neither too snug nor too loose. The generally accepted rule is that it should fit well, leaving enough room for two to three of your fingers to easily slip between the collar and the puppy's neck.
If your puppy has a tendency to back out of his collar, you may choose to use a slip collar or choke chain as it tightens and loosens with the pressure of your leash, sending clear signals to your pup. This collar is a slip-knotted, smooth metal chain that comes in various sizes. The idea is that as the dog pulls harder and moves away from you (his trainer), the collar tightens and inhibits his breathing. When he stops and the collar loosens, he can breathe normally. Because of its potential to choke a dog, it should only be used as instructed and only when training. If left on as a permanent collar, should it become stuck on something and your pup panics to get away, he can accidentally choke himself.
A pronged collar operates like a choke chain in that it tightens around the dog's neck as he pulls harder. But the pronged collar has dulled metal prongs that poke him in the neck the harder he pulls. Many people use this when walking powerful dogs they can no longer control with a simple buckle collar. While the pronged collar can be a helpful training tool, if you feel you need one to just walk your dog around the block, it's time to see a trainer before the problem gets even worse.
The simple metal identification tag you can make yourself at a machine in a pet store can literally save your pup's life. Get one right away and keep it on your pup's first collar, then transfer it to his next collar. It should include your name, your home phone number, and your cell phone number. Proper identification is extremely important.
Leashes or leads, like the collars they often pair with, come in a variety of colors, textures, and styles. It's fun to outfit your pup in a color that reflects his or her gender, like bright blue or pink, or personality, like flowery or plaid. Just as the advice about choosing a collar emphasized a practical decision for a growing puppy, the same has to be said for a leash. Puppies love to chew on leashes — something they should and need to outgrow. Until yours does, go practical. Your leash should be about six feet in length, and one that's made from sturdy cotton weave is truly best. Nylon can be slippery, leather is almost irresistible for a teething pup, and metal is out of the question.
For Slumber and Security
Every pup and dog needs a bed of his or her very own. This can be as simple as a collection of old towels shredded into an old cotton laundry bag (for the truly eco-conscious), or as deluxe as a miniature sofa just for your pup! Beyond the choice of what kind of bed to get, it's critical to know where you will want your puppy to sleep in your home. If you're bringing home a young pup, his accessibility to the house should be limited until he's housetrained, in which case having a bed (or crate) in the kitchen or family room is the best choice. Puppies are very social, and will not want to be left alone at night. Provide a comfy bed or crate in a bedroom with a family member for night time. The person with whom he sleeps for the first month or so must be willing to take him out late for his last walk, and get up early to take him out in the morning. Otherwise, accidents will happen! (But more about housetraining in Chapter 10.)
Though your pup may float in it at first, get a bed that will accommodate him as he grows. Be sure it has a washable liner! You may want to remove the stuff and line it in plastic and then put the cover back over it for the first few weeks so accidents don't penetrate the bed's filling. Supplement with an old towel or blanket laid on top of the bed — anything that's easy to wash. Pups and dogs are suckers for comfy spots, and if the beds you provide fit the bill, they'll take to them with no problem and sleep comfortably.
Do you need a crate?
While some people call crates “cages” — with their association of entrapment — for den animals like dogs a properly used crate provides a reassuring, safe enclosure. Crate training is explained in detail in Chapter 10, and it's a subject you'll definitely want to read more about.
You're getting to the bottom of the list of absolute essentials for your pup, and though these are near last, they are certainly not least. What are they? Toys and grooming supplies. Your pup needs both.
Now that you have a pup or puppies, you will also need a selection of toys, as dogs need these for entertainment and exercise. These Ibizan Hound pups are enjoying playing with a chew toy made from a sock.
Puppies need toys they can sink their razor-sharp puppy teeth into. Rubber or plastic toys designed for chewers come in all shapes and sizes, and are specially made to safely satisfy a variety of sizes and ages of pups (and dogs). Buy wisely, and be sure the material won't rip or puncture, exposing your pup to dangerous substances such as squeakies or toxic stuffing. Your pup's breeder, trainer, or veterinarian can recommend the proper toys for your particular pup.
Toys you don't want to buy include those meant for children, action figures, plush, any plastic object with a liquid center, footballs, basketballs, soccer balls, kickballs (they will puncture and destroy these), baseballs (they'll rip the hide cover off and then who knows what'll happen to all the insides), anything made of glass, and balls of twine.
Some grooming supplies are essential. These include a brush that's appropriate for your dog's fur type (short, long, double-coated, curly, etc.); nail trimmers (get your pup accustomed to these as soon as possible so nail-clipping isn't a dreaded event); a gentle dog-specific shampoo; and a doggy toothbrush and toothpaste made for dogs. Chapter 9 covers all aspects of grooming your puppy, and you'll want to set up a routine for doing it so your pup enjoys and looks forward to its benefits throughout his or her life.
