Old-fashioned beans usually called for fat ham hocks for flavor and lots of greasy goop. This updated recipe calls for smoked pork chops in place of the ham hocks, and if you want to skip the pork chops, please do!

• Wash and drain the beans. Place in large kettle with 2 quarts water. Let soak overnight.

• Drain beans and cover with fresh water.

• Add onion, garlic, carrots, and celery. Cover and simmer slowly for 2 hours. Stir occasionally. Add more water as needed, checking the level often.

• Trim and cube pork chops. Add pepper, smoked pork chops, salt, brown sugar, and mustard. Simmer another 45–60 minutes until flavors blend.

Now We're Really Cooking …

Beans, that is. When you cook beans, be sure to use a large stock pot. You can even use a big slow cooker! After culling and rinsing them, cover beans with cold water. Read your package directions to be sure. Skim away any foam that surfaces while the beans are cooking. It's not the prettiest of culinary sights!