Too Oily? Too Dry?

Your scalp is covered with hair follicles — about 100,000 of them — most attached to a sebaceous gland, which pumps out sebum. When sebum supplies are right, your hair and scalp are protected from environmental assaults, and they look (and feel) healthy. But if your sebaceous glands are putting out too much (or not enough) sebum, your hair and scalp will look oily (or dried out).

Biotin, a water-soluble B vitamin, is essential for healthy hair and scalp, and a deficiency can cause hair loss, dandruff, and a host of other problems. Biotin supplements can help, but so can eating plenty of biotin-rich plants, like whole grains, legumes, cruciferous vegetables, and herbs like soy (Glycine max) and garlic (Allium sativum).

Many people have dry skin — on their bodies and faces as well as their scalps — and can experience itching and flakiness (and dry, dull hair) as a result. To restore moisture to parched skin and hair, you can look to commercial products, which most certainly contain ingredients you don't need along with the emollients you do. Or you can try these herbs:

Almond (Prunus dulcis)

The oil from this ubiquitous nut-it's grown all over the world-can moisturize both skin and hair without leaving too much grease behind; unlike many other plant and synthetic oils, it's got a light texture and is absorbed into the tissues quickly. Almond oil is also rich in scalp-friendly omega-3 essential fatty acids (EFAs).

Cocoa (Theobroma cacao)

Cocoa butter, the semi-solid fat derived from cocoa beans, is a rich emollient and protectant that's great for dry skin. It also contains lactic acid, a proven remedy for rough, scaly skin.

Flax (Linum usitatissimum)

Whether used topically or internally, the oil from flaxseeds locks moisture into the scalp and hair and delivers omega-3 acids, which restore the skin's natural moisture balance. When taken orally, omega-3s seem to work best when combined with omega-6 acids, which are found in borage (Borago officinalis) and evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) oils.

Trying to remedy a case of the greasies generally means hitting the shampoo aisle in search of the strongest shampoo you can find. But that strategy can leave you with dried up, damaged hair and scalp. Herbs offer a better solution:

Horsetail (Equisetum arvense)

Horsetail is an astringent herb that was used by several Native American tribes as an oil-inhibiting hair wash. Willow (Salix alba) and juniper (Juniperus communis) are two more remedies for oily scalp.

Nettle (Urtica dioica)

Nettle leaves are also a good source of astringent chemicals, and a nettle infusion makes an effective rinse for oily hair and scalp. Witch hazel (Hamamelis virginiana) can produce similar results.

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