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Acne and Oily Skin

Acne is a disorder of the sebaceous glands that causes clogged pores and pimples on the face (and occasionally the neck, chest, and upper back). Acne occurs when the sebaceous glands produce too much sebum, which can combine with dead skin cells and block the pores. The pores can become infected (most often with bacteria), creating more inflammation.

Conventional medicine treats acne with a three-pronged approach, using medicines that reduce bacteria, unclog pores, and minimize (or remove) oil. OTC remedies include cleansers and treatments made with antibacterial and astringent ingredients like benzoyl peroxide or sulfur and exfoliants like salicylic acid, alpha-hydroxy acids, or retinol. All of these can cause skin irritation and drying. For example, benzoyl peroxide can cause redness and stinging (it's a bleach as well as a bacteria killer).

Prescription treatments include topical retinoids like tretinoin (Retin-A), adapalene (Differin), and tazarotene (Tazorac). Topical antibiotics include erythromycin and clindamycin (Benzaclin, Duac); antibacterials include sulfacetamide (Klaron) and azelaic acid (Azelex). Oral antibiotics include tetracycline, doxycycline, and minocycline. Oral contraceptives such as drospirenone/ethinyl estradiol (Yaz) are also prescribed in some cases. The drug isotretinoin (Accutane) is sometimes prescribed for very severe or resistant cases.

Many chemicals used in acne treatments, including benzoyl peroxide and sodium lauryl sulfate, a cleaning agent, are known irritants that have been deemed “safe” by the FDA because they're used in relatively low amounts in these products. But in slightly more concentrated applications, these same chemicals are routinely used in lab experiments to induce irritation and burns.

Retinoids can cause irritation and increased sensitivity to the sun. Antibiotics can also increase the likelihood of sunburn along with gastrointestinal upset. Birth control pills can cause digestive problems and headaches and increase your risk for several serious conditions (including heart attack and blood clots). Isotretinoin can cause muscle aches — and severe birth defects when taken by women who are pregnant. Here are some herbal alternatives:

Calendula (Calendula officinalis)

Calendula is famous for its skin-soothing properties (it contains antiinflammatory and immune-stimulating chemicals), but it also contains powerful antibacterial and astringent components. An infusion of calendula can replace commercial toners made with alcohol and other potentially drying ingredients.

Guggul (Commiphora wightii, C. mukul)

This Ayurvedic herb contains antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, and immune-stimulating compounds. Modern research shows oral doses can be as effective against severe (nodulocystic) acne as the drug tetracycline.

Juniper (Juniperus communis)

Native Americans made an infusion from the branches of this evergreen shrub to use as an oil-balancing hair and skin wash. It has antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, and astringent properties (plus exfoliating alphahydroxy acids), making it an effective acne remedy.

Tea tree (Melaleuca alternifolia)

Research shows that a topical tea tree preparation works as well as benzoyl peroxide in clearing pimples, with far fewer side effects.

Vitex (Vitex agnus-castus)

Vitex, one of the best known “women's herbs” used to balance hormonal fluctuations, can be taken orally to prevent or lessen premenstrual breakouts. Red clover (Trifolium pratense) is another proven remedy for PMS-related acne.

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  4. Acne and Oily Skin
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