Family Dining by Kim Knox Beckius
Salty air definitely whets the appetite, but no worries. There are dining delights aplenty in Portland and southern Maine, whether you want to grab a fried bite on the Pier in Old Orchard Beach or relax at a charming, historic restaurant. You'll want to budget a bit more for family meals than you ordinarily do; it may be difficult to convince the kids to eat hot dogs when there's lobster on every menu.
Lobstermania
Many vacationers begin salivating over the thought of lobster the moment they make their Maine travel reservations. Warren's Lobster House (11 Water Street/Route 1, Kittery, 207-439-1630, www.lobsterhouse.com) is one of the state's most southerly seafood spots. This waterside restaurant is also known for its expansive salad bar. Kids who are new to lobster can order the “Captains Claws” — two boiled lobster claws with fries.
FAST FACT
If you see something green and squishy when you break your lobster's tail away from its body, that's tomalley: the lobster's liver. While some consider this a delicacy, children shouldn't eat it, and adults should also steer clear. Maine's Division of Environmental Health warns that lobster tomalley may contain environmental contaminants, such as mercury.
Need a break from outlet shopping? Weathervane Seafood Restaurant (306 Route 1, Kittery, 207-439-0330, www.weathervane-seafoods.com) is located in the heart of “outlet row” and serves lobster and other sea treats in a boisterous, casual environment.
The ever-popular Maine Diner (2265 Post Road/Route 1, Wells, 207-646-4441, www.mainediner.com) is known for its lobster pie, but you may find it hard to resist the clam-o-rama combo: clam chowder, fried whole Maine clams, clam strips, and clam cake. If you're craving lobster for breakfast, this is also the place to go. Be prepared to wait in line.
Near Old Orchard Beach, no one goes hungry at Clambake Seafood Restaurant (Route 9, Scarborough, 207-883-4871, www.clambakerestaurant.com), which specializes in lobster dinners and seats 700; the restaurant is renowned for its big portions. Surf 6 Oceanfront Grille &; Bar (6 Cortland Street, Old Orchard Beach, 207-934-2058, www.oldorchardbeachlodging.com/Surf6/Surf6home.htm), where the bar was once a lobster boat, has lovely views of the Pier and Old Orchard Beach, plus a Lil' Mates menu for kids and fresh steamed lobsters for the grownups.
TRAVEL TIP
If you want to take live lobsters home so you can enjoy one last taste of Maine while you're unpacking, stop by the Pine Point Fisherman's Co-op (96 King Street, Scarborough, 800 741-3146, www.lobsterco-op.com) for some of the freshest — and cheapest — lobsters to go.
For a true experience of eating lobster in the rough, dine outdoors at The Lobster Shack (225 Two Lights Road, Cape Elizabeth, 207-799 1677, www.lobstershack-twolights.com). A local tradition since the 1920s, this seasonal restaurant offers good food and incomparable views. Inside seating is available for rainy, chilly days.
In Freeport, just like L.L. Bean, which is a mere two blocks away, The Lobster Cooker (39 Main Street, 207-865-4349, www.lobstercooker.net) is open every day of the year, serving lobster, homemade chowders, and other seafood selections.
A Taste of History
Step back in time at the Jameson Tavern (115 Main Street, 207 865-4196, www.jamesontavern.com), the 1779 pub where Freeport folks first talked about asserting their freedom from Massachusetts. The Tavern has a number of dining rooms, including the casual taproom.
At The Goldenrod (Route 1A, York Beach, 207-363-2621, www.thegoldenrod.com), you can watch candy makers concoct world-famous Goldenrod Kisses, much as they have been since 1896 when this restaurant and saltwater-taffy shop opened. Breakfast is served all day, and lunch and dinner are available, too, from late May through Columbus Day. With 135 homemade ice-cream flavors and an antique soda fountain, you may want to stop in between meals, too.
For home-style Maine cooking, head inland to Cole Farms (Route 100, Gray, 207-657-4714, www.colefarms.com), which has been serving filling food to travelers and locals since 1952. Kids will like the picnic area and playground, not to mention the forty-item dessert menu.
Memorable Meals
Portland has a vibrant culinary scene, and there are a number of unique eating experiences to contemplate when you're in the city. For starters, you can float while you feast at DiMillo 's Floating Restaurant (Commercial Street/Route 1A, 207-772-2216, www.dimillos.com/restaurant/index.html), a former car ferry turned into one of the largest floating restaurants in the country.
At Becky's Diner (390 Commercial Street, 207-773-7070, www.beckysdiner.com), breakfast is served from 4 A.M. until 4 P.M.; after that, you'll have to order from the “Breakfast in the Evening” menu. For food that's affordable and amusing, take your bunch to Silly's (40 Washington Avenue, 207-772-0360, www.sillys.com), known for its fried pickles, big burgers, and eclectic décor. If your brood has been good, let them wash down their kids' meals with S'mores Shakes.
The number of brewpubs in Portland has dwindled in recent years, but you'll still find bar food and local brews at Gritty McDuff 's (396 Fore Street, 207-772-BREW, www.grittys.com) and Sebago Brewing Company (164 Middle Street, 207-879-ALES, www.sebagobrewing.com). The Great Lost Bear (540 Forest Avenue, 207-772-0300, www.greatlostbear.com) isn't a brewpub, but it does showcase more than a dozen Maine beers among the fifty-four on tap. You're bound to find just the right ale to wash down every item on the restaurant's eclectic menu. If you like your brew with a water view, then Federal Jack's Restaurant and Brewpub (8 Western Avenue, Kennebunk, 207 967-4322, www.federaljacks.com) is the place for you.
If you're able to escape for an evening without the munchkins, head to Fore Street (288 Fore Street, Portland, 207-775-2717, www.forestreet.biz). It might not look like much from the outside, but dining here is a coveted experience, so you'll need reservations. Specialties include turnspit-roasted chicken and pork loin and wood oven — roasted mussels. Further south, you'll find romantic fine dining at Clay Hill Farm (220 Clay Hill Road, Cape Neddick, 207-361-2272, www.clayhillfarm.com), the country's only restaurant that has been designated as a wildlife habitat and bird sanctuary by the National Wildlife Association. For an extraordinary, four-course, prix fixe dinner, the restaurant at the White Barn Inn (37 Beach Avenue, Kennebunkport, 207-967-2321, www.whitebarninn.com) is coastal Maine's most distinguished dining enclave. Reservations and jackets for men are required.