Whether you prefer to just sit back and let the world go by or take a more active role, your family will find enough to do in Puerto Vallarta to fill a month of vacations.

Things to Do

Old Town, with its cobblestone streets and bougainvillea-draped walls, bisected by the Río Cuale River, remains recognizably Mexican. A morning stroll might take you along the malecón to watch the fishermen and the pelicans, then to the crown-topped church, passing a train of burros while on your way to the catédral.

Located in the center of town, La Iglesia de Nuestra Señora de Guadalupe (Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe), Puerto Vallarta's cathedral and most visible landmark. Built as a small church in 1892, it took thirty-three years, from 1918 to 1951, to convert it into the cathedral. Angels holding hands decorate its exterior. And topping its steeple is an enormous replica of the crown supposedly worn by Carlota, Empress of Mexico in the 1860s.

Spend a languid afternoon in the cool shade of the Isla Río Cuale, a long narrow five-acre island, exploring the small free archaeological museum, Museo Río Cuale, and afterward sipping a cool margarita in one of its cozy bistros. Artisan shops offering everything from huipiles (embroidered blouses) to huaraches (leather sandals) to handicrafts dot its meandering walkways canopied with lush tropical foliage. At one end of the island stands a statue of the late film director, John Huston, the man who put Puerto Vallarta on the map. And if you look up, you'll see a hill above Old Town known affectionately as Gringo Gulch, the neighborhood made famous by Burton and Taylor's steamy romance, and home to many wealthy Americans.

Sunday evenings bring out both the local families and tourists along PV's malecón. If you'd rather sit than stroll, you can relax in one of the cafés overlooking PV's famed bronze sculpture, Caballito de Mar (Boy on a Sea Horse), by Rafael Zamarripa. Often, there are public art exhibits set up along the walkway. Here, you'll also find restaurants specializing in fresh seafood, with second-floor balconies from which you can watch the sunset.

Another popular pastime is gallery hopping around town. Because of its artistic heritage, Puerto Vallarta boasts more galleries than any other Mexican beach resort. Biweekly Old Town art walks guide you to the best shows.

For a Tarzan-like experience, try a three-hour jungle trip by Jeep through the mountains to swim in beautiful coves. Or see Puerto Vallarta from the air in a hot-air balloon at sunrise or sunset with Puerto Vallarta Balloon Tours (322-323-2002).

If you want to learn how tequila is made, visit El Pitillal, a tequila micro-distillery. Take the tour, then sample $100-a-bottle pure heaven (322-324-9674).

For the Kids

Swimming with dolphins, a popular activity in other Mexican beach resorts, has come to Puerto Vallarta. But you'll have to travel to the Nuevo Vallarta Marina in the neighboring state of Nayarit to do so (329-297-1212). The waterpark in Marina Vallarta also offers a day of fun.

If you're in Puerto Vallarta from December to April, take the kids on a whale-watching excursion with Vallarta Adventures (322-297-1212). Boats follow the humpback whales, which migrate down from Alaska. There's nothing more unforgettable than seeing a whale breach out of the water. Some come right up to the boat. Or at night from June to September, kids can help release baby turtles into the sea through programs sponsored by Puerto Vallarta hotels.

Kids eight and above will enjoy swinging through the trees like Tarzan or Jane at several jungle locations around Puerto Vallarta. Mexico's newest thrill ride sends them hurtling at speeds of up to thirty-five miles an hour over the treetops while safely wrapped in a nylon harness.

If your kids like to race, take them to Super Go Karts, north of the airport (322-321-2293) where they can race around a 3,250-foot track in a high-tech go-kart.

Bullfights

Like Cancún, Puerto Vallarta holds bullfights on Wednesday afternoons at 5 P.M. from November to June at Plaza de Toros La Paloma. Tickets cost around $25.