Most of Mexico City's over 2,000 restaurants serve desayuno (break-fast) from 7 A.M. to noon, almuerzo (lunch), considered the main meal, from 2 to 4 P.M., and la cena (dinner) after 7 P.M. Some restaurants require more dressy attire, so come prepared if you want to eat at fancier places. In general, Capitalinos (as residents of the city are called) are more conservative.

You'll find branches of some of the world's most famous restaurants concentrated in the Zona Rosa, while trendy bistros call Colonia Polanco home. If you're looking for a more bohemian atmosphere, check out the restaurants in Colonias Roma and Condesa.

Local Dining Suggestions

• Hacienda de los Morales: Elegant dining on fine Mexican cuisine in a restored hacienda in Mexico City's poshest neighborhood (Polanco, Vazque de Mella 525, 55-5096-4554)

• La Fonda del Refugio: Fantastic traditional Mexican dishes served in a cozy Mexican-art-filled environment (Zona Rosa, Liverpool 166, 55-5525-8128)

• El Danubio: The best grilled seafood and comida corrida served in a nostalgic setting, with autographed walls (Colonia Roma, República de Uruguay, 55-5521-0912)

• Sanborn's: Excellent family restaurant in the historic Casa de Azulejos, as well as other locations (Centro Histórico, Madero 4, 55-5512-2300)

• Café de Tacuba: One of the Centro Histórico's most picturesque eateries, serving traditional Mexican food to the accompaniment of mariachis and estudiantinas evenings (Centro Histórico, Tacuba 28, 55-5518-4950)

Dining Precautions

With so many restaurants, it's hard for the Mexican government to police them all. Use common sense when choosing one, and don't drink the water unless you're sure it's purified. Major hotels and restaurants all have water purification systems. You'll find bottled water sold everywhere.