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Something for Everyone

Beach fun is the number-one activity in Manzanillo, whether it be lying under an umbrella, building sand castles, or peeking into the watery depths. But the city is developing some unique attractions to round out your days.

Things to Do

Manzanillo, with its population of just 130,000, used to have little in the way of sights to see. Except for the immediate downtown area and some magnificent views of the beaches from high up on the coastal cliffs, most of the attractions were some distance away. In recent years, the town fathers have invested heavily in building a new harborside boardwalk, upgrading the downtown area, and opening a new archaeological museum.

A large rock formation splits Old Manzanillo in two — on one side the harborfront, with the Jardin de Obregón, the main square, and on the other the shopping area. Spend some time strolling around the plaza, with its twin fountains, large blue sailfish sculpture by artist Sebastian, and Victorian bandstand. Busts of Benito Juárez and Father Hidalgo stare at each other from across the park. Perhaps stop and have your shoes shined or buy a colorful animal balloon for your child. Next, step into the cool depths of the Parroquia Nuestra Senora de Guadalupe (The Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe) to see the story of Juan Diego and the miracle of the Virgin of Guadalupe told in four stunning stained glass panels on either side of the altar. Wander through the colorful stalls of El Mercado, the city market, about ten blocks away. Though there's not much specific to see, you can absorb lots of local color. And don't forget to visit the boat-filled harbor and shipyards across from the plaza. Manzanillo is one of the largest ports on the Mexican Pacific Coast and one of the bases for the Mexican navy.

RAINY DAY FUN

To understand about Manzanillo's pre-Columbian past, visit the Museo Universitario de Arqueología, on the waterfront boulevard northeast of town, where you'll see exhibits of ceramic vessels and figurines, plus ancient shell jewelry. Admission is $1. (Open 10 A.M. to 2 P.M. and 5 to 8 P.M., 314-332-2256.)

For a great view of the city, port, and surrounding area, climb to the top of Cerro Vigía Chico, Manzanillo's highest hill. Continue further to the top of Cerro Cruz and see an even better view. Make sure you do either or both climbs in the early morning or evening, wear a hat, and take plenty of water with you. The view is particularly spectacular at sunset.

But it's when you head for the hills of New Manzanillo that you witness true splendor — verdant hillsides tumbling down to an azure sea, with miles of beachfront. North of Old Manzanillo lies the Península de Santiago, separating the Bahía de Manzanillo from the Bahía Santiago.

Some visitors choose to rent a Jeep and go on an excursion past orchards of lime and mango trees and fields of chili peppers to idyllic Barre de Navidad, a quaint beach resort with excellent rustic beachside seafood restaurants, terrific fishing, and a Bohemian atmosphere, and neighboring San Patricio on Melanque Bay, a short thirty-five-mile drive west from Manzanillo. Here, you can take a boat taxi across the deep blue lagoon to an outdoor seafood restaurant, where the biggest decision you'll have to make is whether the tiny sweet oysters from the lagoon are tastier than the big ones from the bay.

FAST FACT

In 1541, Viceroy Antonio de Mendoza arrived on the shores of a barrier island which he christened Barre de Navidad, after the Spanish word for Christmas.

For the Kids

Take the kids on an excursion to the Centro Ecológico de Cuyutlán “El Tortugario” (Turtle Sanctuary) in Cuyutlán, an old beach resort about thirty miles south of Manzanillo. Whether you drive yourself or take a van tour, you'll ride through miles of coconut and banana plantations to the thirty-one-mile-long Laguna de Cuyutlán. Here, your kids will enjoy seeing baby turtles being raised in pools until they're old enough to be released into the ocean. You can even have the kids pose for pictures with the sanctuary's resident alligator. Admission is $2 for adults, $1.50 for children under twelve. (Open 8:30 A.M. to 5:30 P.M., 313-328-8676.)

TRAVEL TIP

If you want your children to participate in the releasing of the baby turtles daily at 4:30 P.M., August through October, you must make an appointment.

Afterwards, take a $5 guided boat ride on the lagoon to see all sorts of birds and wildlife. And don't forget to visit the Museo de la Sal (Salt Museum), an old wooden salt warehouse filled with exhibits on Cuyutlán's salt industry. Your child can even buy a small bag of sea salt to take home for show-and-tell at school. (Open 10 A.M. to 6 P.M., 313-322-1687.)

Visit Colima

The main attraction to visit is Colima, the state capital, with a population of 90,000. A two-hour drive to the northeast, you can easily visit it in a day. This colonial city was founded in 1523 on the former site of Cajitlán, meaning “where pottery is made.” It's an attractive, slow-paced town of simple architecture and lush gardens that stands at the foot of twin volcanoes, snow-capped Nevado de Colima and Volcán de Fuego. The former, an extinct volcano also called Zapetépetl or “mountain of the sapodilla trees,” is the sixth-highest peak in Mexico at 14,222 feet. The latter, at 12,992 feet, erupted in 1991, and still fumes and smokes. Both look down on a forested valley and quiet lagoon. Because of the city's proximity to the volcanoes and a severe earthquake in 1941, not many colonial buildings remain.

Be sure to visit the Museo de Culturas del Occidente (Museum of Western Cultures), which is open 10 A.M. to 6:30 P.M., Tuesday through Saturday (314-312-3155). Five galleries are filled with over 700 archaeological artifacts, including exhibits of ixcunclis, or “Colima dogs,” terra-cotta sculptures in varying poses, which the Indians believed accompanied the souls of the dead. And don't miss the collection of over 350 antique automobiles, dating from 1884 to 1950.

North of Colima in the shadow of Volcán de Fuego stands La Campana (The Lookout), the archaeological remains of the former capital city of Coliman. Archaeologists believe the platforms, pyramids, and ceremonial plazas date from about A.D. 800. They also believe the Aztec-speaking inhabitants abandoned the site before the conquest due to earthquakes from the volcanoes. Though it covers approximately 120 acres, only a small portion has been unearthed.(Open 9 A.M. to 5 P.M., 312-313-4946.)

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  4. Something for Everyone
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