At night, the sounds of tropical, guitar, and rock music drift through the air, mingling with the sounds of the ocean and the traffic along the Costera. This is the best time to take a ride in a balloon-festooned calendria or horse and carriage.

Acapulco-after-dark doesn't heat up until after midnight. Whirl away into the wee hours on the floors of some of the world's hottest discos. Zucca, Palladium, Baby'O, and others are frenzied and fun. Most open at 10 P.M. and don't close until dawn. Some charge a small cover with drinks extra and others an all-you-can-drink cover. And don't forget to have your hotel concierge make reservations, or you may not get in.

For family fun, especially if you have teens along, go to either Señor Frogs (744-446-5734), with a bullring decor, or Carlos ‘n’ Charlies's (744-484-1285), a favorite party hangout since 1970. The latter offers all-you-can-eat tacos, tequila, and beer every Wednesday and Sunday from 2 to 6 P.M.