One of the earliest archaeological sites in all of the Hawaiian Islands is found on the island of Oahu. Interestingly, this early evidence for settlement is found on the windward, wet side of the island rather than the drier leeward side. The early settlers weren't all that interested in sunbathing on the sandy beaches of the leeward side. The northern side of the island offered a really nice environment for the establishment of agriculture with regular rain and fresh water and some good fishing as well. As populations or social pressures increased, settlements began to spread out to various valleys and on to the leeward side as well.

In the old days, Oahu had been divided up into six districts, which in turn were divided into smaller slices of land. A hierarchy of chiefs ruled the island. Typically, a head chief (ali'i nui) had the ultimate authority.

Armies from other major island powers such as Maui and the Big Island would sometimes fight for territories, and in 1783, Oahu came under the power of Maui. This situation came to an end when Kamehameha I engaged in his unifying conquest of the islands. In 1795, Kamehameha landed on Oahu and engaged in a fierce battle with the island's army, forcing some of them into the mountains to fall over the cliffs at Nu'uanu on the windward side. Kamehameha briefly established his ruling capital at Honolulu, but he later returned to his Big Island home.

Europeans Arrive

Captain Cook managed to sail by Oahu without stopping, but the island caught the attention of those who followed in his wake. English captain William Brown did some exploring and recognized the suitability of Honolulu Harbor as a sheltered anchorage, a place he named “Fair Haven.” Within a few decades, the place would become a major port for traders and whalers. Commercial districts and “entertainment” opportunities for the sailors quickly arose, while missionaries railed against the excesses.

Sugarcane grew well on the island, and with the establishment of a major sugar industry by American entrepreneurs in the nineteenth century, wide-scale agriculture was developed, including the growing of pineapples. As a result of the need for plantation workers, large numbers of immigrants arrived, particularly from Asia. Although the sugarcane industry has declined, pineapples are still cultivated on Oahu's central plateau. Honolulu became a center for American business, which occasionally played a heavy-handed role in island politics. In 1845, Kamehameha III moved the capital of the Hawaiian Kingdom to Honolulu, where his successors ruled until the coup of 1893.

A Popular Beach Is Born

The nice stretch of beach at Waikiki had long been a favorite spot and was known to the Hawaiians as a prime spot for surfing well before the coming of the Europeans. Looking at modern Waikiki, it's hard to imagine that this overdeveloped tourist destination was once basically a marsh. In fact, the name “Waikiki” means “spouting waters” and probably refers to the land's previously wet state. Actually, the wetlands suited the old Hawaiians just fine, as they could grow some of their staples there, hunt birds, and maintain fishponds. As the land became increasingly valuable during the late nineteenth century, these wet areas were drained and filled in, forming the foundation for the thicket of buildings found there today. The Ala Wai Canal runs behind the Waikiki area. Built in the early twentieth century, the canal continues to channel the mountain waters that once fed the marshes.

As Honolulu continued to grow as a city and commercial center, its reputation as the “Paradise of the Pacific” increased. Ships brought visitors from afar, and hotels sprang up here and there to accommodate the need. In 1901, the Moana Hotel became the first big tourist hotel to appear on the beach at Waikiki. It was followed by the Halekulani in 1907 and the classic Royal Hawaiian in 1927. The Hawaiian Islands, and Waikiki in particular, began to attract some real celebrities including members of the British royal family and American movie stars.

The World Changes

A rival harbor to the one in Honolulu was Pearl Harbor. Called Pu'uloa in Hawaiian, Pearl Harbor got its English name from the pearl oysters that could once be found there. In 1887, the U.S. Navy began to establish itself there, and Oahu eventually became home to the Pacific Fleet. Military installations continued to be built, including the Schofield Barracks in 1908, and today about a quarter of the island is under military control.

The events of December 7, 1941, on the island of Oahu forever changed history. Two waves of Japanese attacks on Pearl Harbor and other military installations initiated the war in the Pacific. Oahu was put under military curfews, and some of its Japanese citizens were considered suspect. Throughout the war, the island continued to play a major role. Pearl Harbor was cleaned up and resumed its service as a central naval base. The war's dramatic conclusion four years later brought about a new nuclear era and a restructuring of international relations.

Japan's political system and economy were generously rebuilt in the aftermath of the war. Today, the Japanese constitute a significant fraction of the tourist population in Hawaii. Japanese commercial interests and investments are extensive in the islands, a situation which some welcome but others resent.

The relative peace and tranquility following the war brought increasing numbers of tourists and the hotels at Waikiki, and the skyline of Honolulu began to sprout even more concrete monoliths. Statehood sealed the deal in 1959, and with Honolulu as the capital, the overwhelming political and economic importance of Oahu remains undisputed.