Archaeological work on Molokai has revealed that the island was definitely settled by A.D. 650. Valleys and coastal plains, especially on the eastern side of the island, provided the rich agricultural terrain necessary for maintaining the Hawaiian lifestyle. The big green valleys on the northeast coast are no longer inhabited, but there is plenty of evidence that they were settled. (With canoes, they weren't as isolated as they are today.) The eastern valley of Halawa once supported a population of probably well over a thousand people. The extensive archaeological remains include agricultural terraces, irrigation works, and temple platforms. Having been settled at an early date, the valley was inhabited for at least 1,200 years.

Another interesting feature about the history of Molokai is that its early inhabitants were involved in fish farming. Along the southern coast archaeologists have found the remains of numerous fishponds that were constructed for the raising of mullet, milkfish, and other brackish-water species. The walls of the ponds were built above the high-tide level, and grated breaches allowed the small fish in. Once they were fat enough, they couldn't get out! One of the larger fishponds (the Ali'i Fishpond) is about 2,700 feet long.

In old Hawaiian culture, Molokai had a special reputation. It was the land of the kahuna, powerful sorcerers who could work their magic to their advantage. One of the mottos of the island is Moloka'i pule o'o (“Molokai, strong of prayers”). A powerful Molokai prophet named Lanikaula is remembered in Hawaiian legends. Missionaries first came to the island in 1832 and much of the practice of sorcery would come to an end.

Situated between two islands with fairly large populations and powerful chiefs, Molokai was sometimes caught in the middle and at different times was under the domain of Maui or Oahu. Kamehameha the Great was said to have trained his military on the island prior to his invasion of Oahu. Molokai, of course, was eventually incorporated into Kamehameha's kingdom. The beach at Kalewa on the island's southeast shore was the site of at least a couple of famous battles between island powers.

Leper Colony on Molokai

It is unfortunate that Molokai is often remembered for a somewhat tragic episode in Hawaiian history. When leprosy (Hansen's disease) broke out in the islands, an attempt was made to quarantine carriers of this much dreaded malady. Molokai's isolated Kalaupapa Peninsula was selected, and beginning in 1866, lepers were captured and cruelly dumped off there, often left to fend for themselves. A bit of salvation arrived in 1873 when a Roman Catholic priest from Belgium, Joseph de Veuster, better known as Father Damien, came to the island to help the lepers. Father Damien worked unselfishly at the leper colony for the rest of his life. He helped build homes, churches, and hospitals, initially at Kalaweo and then at the settlement of Kalaupapa. He provided great care to the residents. Damien himself contracted leprosy in 1885 and died at the colony four years later.

Island Style

They call Molokai “the Friendly Island,” and it certainly is. The whole island has a small-town atmosphere. The general feeling here is to slow down and take it easy. Even the island's capital, Kaunakakai, has a very rural quality. The economy on the island isn't exactly thriving today, but there is some agriculture (mostly coffee, macadamia nuts, and flowers), and cattle ranching, plus some tourism. The biggest landowner on the island is the Molokai Ranch.