Although much of the Middle East is devoted to Islam—or, in Israel, to Judaism— every year thousands of Christians from around the world make pilgrimages to the Holy Land, especially Bethlehem. They come to visit the place where, according to the Gospels, it all began. Not surprisingly, this is the time of the year when Bethlehem is most popular, although the scope of the celebrations often depends on the political climate at the time.

The festivities in the “little town” center on the Church of the Nativity and the Shepherds’ Fields. The Church of the Nativity is believed to stand on the place where Christ was born; under the church, within a small cave, a star on the floor marks the place where Mary gave birth to Jesus. The Shepherds’ Fields is said to represent the fields where the angels announced the arrival of Christ.

There are three Christian groups in Bethlehem. The Roman Catholics celebrate Christmas on December 25, the Greek Orthodox on January 6, and the Armenian Christians on January 18. Representatives protecting the interests of these three groups sit on a board that governs the Church of the Nativity, so that no group will be favored or slighted. No services are held within the church itself, but rather in an adjoining building. Services on Christmas Eve are by invitation only, but are televised to the crowds outside. Afterward, most venture to the Shepherds’ Fields, which are also divided into three sections.

Christmas is also celebrated quite widely in Lebanon, with lights, carols, and midnight church services. Papa Noél brings presents to children, and the meal often includes a cake that’s designed to resemble a Yule log.

Some of the more predominantly Muslim countries do have Christian sections, and in those sections Christmas is observed, although the observance is usually more strictly religious, as in Africa. Some countries, however, have Christian populations that have been celebrating Christmas for centuries.

In Armenia, it is believed that Christmas should be celebrated on the day of Christ’s baptism, which is January 6 in most church calendars. However, the Armenian Church follows the old Julian calendar, which marks this date as January 18. One week before Christmas there is a fast, during which no meat, eggs, cheese, or milk may be eaten. Religious services are held on Christmas Eve and Christmas Day. Afterward, children go onto the roofs with handkerchiefs and sing carols; often the handkerchiefs are later filled with fruit, grain, or money.

In Iraq, where the Magi are believed to have traveled from, Christmas is known as the Little Feast (Easter being the Great Feast). Christians here fast from December 1 until Christmas Eve, consuming no meat, eggs, milk, or cheese. After the evening church service a great feast begins, but there is no gift exchange.

Syria celebrates Christmas longer than most Middle Eastern countries, beginning on December 4 (St. Barbara’s Day) and lasting through Epiphany (January 6). Children receive gifts on New Year’s Day from the Camel of Jesus. One tradition, left over from the days of religious persecution, is to lock the outside gate of the house on Christmas Eve. This is to remind all that they once had to practice their religion behind closed doors. The father lights a great fire in the courtyard, the youngest son reads from the Gospel, and hymns are sung. After the fire has been reduced to embers, family members make a wish and jump over them. Epiphany Eve is known in Syria as Lilat-al-Kadr (Night of Destiny). A magic mule brings presents to children on this night. The mule’s magic powers come from when he was caught up as the trees bowed at midnight the night of Christ’s birth.

In Pakistan, many aspects of the Christmas celebration are similar to those in America—there’s even a Santa Claus. December 25 is a public holiday, although it honors not Jesus but Jinnah, the founder of Pakistan. Still, for Christians, the day is known as Bara Din, and is marked by church services, family visits, and delicious food.

In neighboring India, the Christmas trees for the churches are made out of straw. The straw is twisted into shape and coated with mud; later, greens are applied, and then candles. In some instances, banana trees are also decorated.