Dealing with Fleas
Fleas have been annoying humankind and animals for centuries, and they're almost as tough to control today as they were in the days of ancient Rome. The flea's exoskeleton is amazingly resilient, and fleas can jump several hundred feet to land on an unsuspecting host.
Despite what many dog owners believe, fleas do not spend most of their lives on their pets. In fact, fleas only stay on dogs to feed and breed. They feed by biting the dog and sucking its blood. Because fleas often harbor tapeworm larvae in their systems, fleas can transmit tapeworm disease to the animal through the bloodstream or by being eaten when a dog tries to chew the fleas off himself. When fleas mate, the females lay hundreds of eggs. These drop off the dog and into the environment. Larvae hatch from the eggs in two to three weeks, and these feed on environmental debris such as human or animal dandruff, mold, and other protein and vegetable matter.
Fighting fleas can start from the inside out with your dog. There are foods and supplements you can give that boost your dog's immune system — and a healthy dog is both less susceptible to these pests and better able to fight them off. These ingredients include brewer's yeast, garlic, B vitamins, and — for the skin — calcium, phosphorous, and zinc. For more information, check out The Goldsteins' Wellness & Longevity Program for Dogs and Cats.
From the larval stage, the flea develops a cocoon shell in which it matures. In the cocoon stage, the flea can live with no nutrients for almost a year. Then all it takes is the slight vibration of an animal's passing for the cocoon to release the adult, which jumps onto its host and begins the life cycle all over again.
Your dog can pick up fleas almost anywhere — outdoors, in a neighbor's house, even from another dog. Chances are, by the time you spot adult fleas on your dog, you have an infestation in your home and/or yard.
You'll know you and your dog are in trouble when you see him itching or licking himself suddenly and with real purpose. To confirm your suspicions, part your dog's hair to the skin or brush it backward and see if you notice any black specks. The specks can be dense around the dog's groin area, in the hair at the base of the tail, and around the ears and neck. With a moist paper towel, wipe the specks. If they turn red, they're flea dirt — particles of digested blood the flea has excreted.
Facing the Problem
Now that you know your dog has fleas, you will have to be diligent about removing them from the dog and the environment. If you only remove the fleas from your dog without eliminating the flea eggs, larvae, and cocoons from the environment, you are guaranteed a continuing problem.
One flea and tick preventive measure is to apply a topical product onto your dog's skin between her shoulder blades. From there it will spread to the rest of her skin, but she can't lick it directly.
Dog owners are fortunate to have a wide range of flea-fighting products to choose from, ones that are safer than ever for dogs and the environment. You should consult with your veterinarian before waging a war on the fleas that have infiltrated your happy home; you'll want to be sure that the products you select for use on your dog and your home are appropriate for your dog's age, weight, and skin type, and that the ingredients don't clash with a product you choose for your home and yard.
The active ingredient in many of the topical flea products on the market these days is pyrethrin, a natural compound that's toxic to fleas but won't harm pets or people. There are also formulations that stop flea eggs from developing, interrupt the reproductive cycle, and break down the flea's tough exoskeleton.
Once you've selected the flea-fighters you'll need, plan a systematic approach to ridding your dog, home, and yard of all stages of the flea life cycle. Take every step seriously if you want to completely eliminate the problem. You'll need to vacuum thoroughly, using several vacuum-cleaner bags and disposing of them all in air-tight plastic bags. You'll need to wash all the dog's bedding in very hot water. This may include your family's bedding, too, if the dog shares anyone's bed. Any place that your dog passes through or sleeps in can be considered a flea “hot spot” and potentially infested. Concentrate your efforts there.
To remove fleas on your dog, first wash her with a flea-killing shampoo to kill and rid your pet of some of the pests, then comb through the dog's wet fur with a fine-toothed flea comb. Dip the comb in a large glass of soapy water or rubbing alcohol to drown and kill any fleas that survived the bath. After a nose-to-tail combing, rinse your dog with a conditioning rinse to remove any excess soap or alcohol, and to help soothe the skin.
Dry your dog thoroughly, and don't let her roll in her favorite hole in the yard or lie down in her usual spot on the porch — these are possible hot spots, too, and they need to be treated with an outdoor insecticide. Once you've treated the dog, house, and yard, you'll never want to repeat the process, so you'll need to step up your preventive measures.
Preventing a Flea Problem
Figuring your dog can get fleas any time he steps out of your home and into a well-populated area, you should check him regularly before coming inside. Run a flea comb through his fur. This will snag any freeloaders before they start breeding. Kill them on the comb by crushing them with your fingernail or immersing the comb in a glass of soapy water or rubbing alcohol.
During the warm months, when fleas are at their worst, bathe your dog regularly with a flea-preventive shampoo, and ask your veterinarian about other products designed to keep fleas from settling on your pet. Vacuum your home frequently, and make sure to keep your pet's bedding fresh and clean.
There are several over-the-counter flea control products available for the war against these insidious pests. While keeping your dog flea-free is most desirable, remember that these products are pesticides. Some are not recommended for puppies. It's critical that you read their instructions completely and use them according to the directions. Discuss any concerns with your veterinarian.
Flea Bite Sensitivity
Many dogs are allergic to the saliva that fleas inject into their skin when they bite them or are particularly sensitive to fleas living on them. These dogs can develop serious skin ailments from their allergies and sensitivities, which often linger even after the flea problem has been eradicated. The excessive scratching, licking, and fur-biting they indulge in to get at the fleas leaves their skin damaged, causing further itching and, often, infection. The infection can leave the skin swollen or patchy and can lead to permanent hair loss. Besides being unsightly, a flea allergy or sensitivity is extremely irritating to your dog. Your veterinarian will advise you on how best to treat this many-symptomed problem.
