When you brush, make sure that you are not just brushing the hair on the dog's back. You need to hold the hair up, brush underneath down to the belly, and even brush out any feathering on the legs. Many pups enjoy a good belly rub, and that can be a good time to do a little grooming there, too. The tail needs to be gently brushed, as well as the area around the face and ears. Even short-coated dogs need a wipe with a damp cloth to pick up loose hair and any dirt buildup.

When brushing, don't just lightly run the brush over the top of the coat. Brush all the way down to the skin to remove dirt, skin-cell debris, and loose hairs. You may be amazed at the amount of hair you remove. This is a good grooming task for outdoors or in the garage. If that's not possible, brush the dog while he's standing on a sheet so you can simply gather it up and throw it in the washing machine when you're through.

Shorthaired Dogs

A good brush for most shorthaired dogs is a rubber curry brush that fits over the hand. You can find a good selection of curry brushes and hound mitts at well-stocked pet-supply stores. Also get a steel comb with wide and narrow teeth to help remove tangles.

Breeds that shed heavily may also benefit from the use of a shedding blade, shedding comb, or wire slicker brush, but if you choose to use these, be aware of the following points:

• These tools have sharp edges or teeth that remove excess coat. Use them once or twice a week, after first brushing with the curry.

• You should move a shedding blade over the body in the direction that the hair grows. If you bear down too hard, the sharp edges may injure your dog.

• Using a shedding blade on the legs or other areas where the hair is thin and fine, such as the belly, can break the skin and cause injury.

• Avoid using shedding tools too often or you'll remove too much coat, leaving your dog with a flaky or scaly appearance.

Longhaired Dogs

Longhaired dogs are prone to mats and tangles, but daily brushing helps keep these problems under control. The following chart tells you what tools you need for your longhaired dogs and what they will accomplish.

Tool	What It Does
Pin brush	A pin brush, which has long metal “pins” coming out of the pad, helps lift out loose hair and skin debris without removing a lot of undercoat. When you're finished grooming, you can use the pin brush to fluff the coat by brushing against the direction that the hair grows.
Shedding or dematting comb	Use this to break up matted sections before combing them out completely.
Wire slicker brush	Use the slicker brush to gently remove knots and tangles.
Shedding blade	When your dog is “blowing,” or shedding coat, a shedding blade comes in handy to remove all that excess hair.
Bristle brush	The bristle brush brings out shine once the other tools have done their work.

Run the pin brush through the coat in the direction that the hair grows. Check for mats behind the ears, on the backs of the legs, in the groin area, and on the tail. If necessary, use the shedding comb to remove any mats. Work at it slowly, starting at the bottom of the mat and working toward the skin, being careful not to pull your dog's hair.

Try to avoid cutting the mat, because that will simply make the area more prone to matting. Spending just a few minutes each day to remove tangles before they get bad will save you time in the long run, and it will also save your dog pain.

Wirehaired Dogs

Besides the usual brushes and combs, you'll need a few additional tools to groom a wirehaired dog. Review the following checklist to see what you need for your wirehaired pup:

• TRIMMING AND THINNING SCISSORS

• ONE OR TWO STRIPPING KNIVES

• A SET OF CLIPPERS

• CORNSTARCH OR GROOMING CHALK

You can keep a wire coat in good condition with weekly brushing. Use a pin brush or a natural bristle brush. First, brush in the opposite direction of the hair growth, then brush in the direction of hair growth. Care for leg and facial hair with a wire slicker brush. The slicker brush is also useful for removing undercoat.

To maintain its correct hard texture, a wire coat must also be stripped twice a year. Stripping is a technique done to remove dead hair and shape the coat. You can strip the coat by hand or with a special tool called a stripping knife. Your breeder or a groomer can show you how to strip the coat and advise you on the types of stripping knives and scissors to purchase.

If stripping seems like too much work, you can simply have the coat clipped, but be aware that this will soften the texture and color of the hair. Wire-haired show dogs are never clipped, and if you want your dog to maintain the proper wire look, stripping is the way to go.

Wirehaired breeds also have facial hair — eyebrows and a beard — that must be trimmed and shaped. Before you start, wash the furnishings (as facial hair is known) and work in some cornstarch or grooming chalk. Comb the hair forward and use scissors to trim as desired.

For a pet, you'll just want your dog to have a neat appearance, but if you plan to show your dog, you'll need to get detailed advice from your breeder or another person experienced in the breed to achieve the correct look.

Hairless Dogs

If you have a hairless dog, you don't need to worry about grooming at all, right? Wrong! These breeds have special needs, as their delicate skin is prone to acne and sunburn. Different hairless breeds have different skin types, so your dog's breeder is the best person to advise you about appropriate skin care. However, here are some basic facts and tips:

• Hairless dogs with good skin-smooth and clear with tiny pores-rarely need baths. Hairless dogs with larger pores or oily skin that's prone to acne may need baths with a mild shampoo every one or two weeks to keep their skin in good condition and oil production at a minimum.

• Contrary to what you may have heard, hairless breeds perspire only through their paw pads, just like other dogs.

• If your dog is prone to acne, use a medicated shampoo or acne medication recommended by your veterinarian or breeder. Often, acne clears up after adolescence, just as it does in humans.

• After a bath, you may need to moisturize the skin to keep it soft and supple. This is especially important if you live in a dry climate. You can use gentle products made for human use. Coat oil made for dogs can also help keep a hairless dog's furnishings-the hair on the head, feet, and tail-in good condition. Carefully brush the hair with a pin brush.

• Hairless breeds sunburn easily. Keep them indoors during the heat of the day, and make sure they're protected with sunscreen if they do go outside. Choose a sunscreen that's safe if your dog licks it off, or purchase one that's specially made for dogs. Look for it at pet-supply stores, your veterinarian's clinic, or at online pet-supply sites.

Method	What to Do
Offer food	If there's one thing that can capture a dog's attention, it's food. For some, this is the trick that makes nail clipping at home possible. Simply distract the dog by feeding bite-sized treats one at a time while you clip the nails out of view.
Do a few at a time	Perhaps your dog can sit still long enough to have a few nails clipped, but all four feet is just too much to ask. In this situation, try doing a few nails per day over the course of a week. This will give your dog breaks in between clippings, but you'll still have all the nails done within a reasonable time.
Grind away	Though clippers are most common, some people choose to use a nail grinder for this task. A grinder will make more noise, but it grinds away the nail instead of snipping it off. It may seem strange, but some dogs prefer the steady grinding sensation to the sudden clip. You can also use a manual grinder (similar to an emery board), but this could take more time than you have to spare.
Leave it to the vet	If your dog struggles too much for you to even attempt nail clipping at home, bring him to the vet. Vets are well trained to handle fussy dogs, and having the vet do the dirty work will free you up to comfort your pup.