Basic behavioral training is essential for any dog. This training isn't designed to teach your dog to do tricks but rather to give you the tools to keep your dog under proper control for his own safety and your peace of mind. Proper basic training will enable you to trust your dog at home alone without wondering what piece of furniture he's destroying.

In order to get the most out of your training, you need to have the proper equipment. The most important pieces of equipment for basic training are a well-fitted collar, a six-foot leather leash, and a fifteen-foot-long line. Additionally, when working toward off-leash control, you'll need a tab (a short nylon rope) and a fifty-foot light line. All are described in some detail following.

Collars

When you begin training, use the collar your puppy wears around the house. It should be well made and properly fitted. If it's not or he doesn't wear a collar, start with a snug fitting, buckle-type collar, flat or rolled. Consider switching to a slip collar, a prong collar, or a head halter if you would like an extra measure of control because of your dog's size or strength. These items should only be used on older puppies and under the guidance of your veterinarian or an experienced trainer.

CHAIN SLIP COLLAR: This type of collar should fit to be only ½ to 2 inches larger than the thickest part of your puppy's skull. Although collars this small can be difficult to slide on and off, snug collars deliver timelier corrections. This type also stays in place better when properly positioned-high on the neck, just behind the ears, with the rings just under the puppy's right ear. So that the slip collar will loosen after corrections, it's important to put this collar on correctly. You'll know if you've got the collar on correctly if the links slide easily when tightened or loosened.

NYLON SLIP COLLAR: Neither round nor flat nylon slip collars offer the slide and release action of a chain, but they do deliver stronger corrections than buckle collars. As with any collar, the nylon slip should only be tightened momentarily while correcting; constant tension means the puppy isn't being told when he's doing well and when he's doing poorly.

PRONG COLLAR: Strong or easily distracted puppies may benefit by use of a prong or pinch collar. The prongs come in four sizes: micro, small, medium, and large. The length is adjustable by removing or adding prongs. Some people think prong collars look like instruments of torture, but they're actually a very humane tool when properly used. If you want to use one, have an experienced trainer show you how to properly fit and work with it.

Leashes

To teach commands and mannerly walking, and to “umbilical cord” your puppy (lead him with his leash tied to your belt), use a six-foot leather leash. The proper width of the leash depends on your pup's weight. See the following table for guidelines.

To train your puppy to accept the leash, start by putting on his buckle-type collar and lightweight leash. For ten to thirty minutes, three times a day for a week, watch him drag it around the house or yard. Better still, attach the lead prior to playtime with another puppy or a favorite toy. He'll step on it, scratch his neck, refuse to move, or maybe even scream, all of which you should ignore. Since many puppies like to chew the lead, you may need to thoroughly coat it before each session with a chewing deterrent like Bitter Apple spray.

When he is comfortable about dragging the leash, pick up the handle and coax him to walk on your left side by carrying and squeezing an interesting squeaky toy. If he really fights you, attach the leash handle to a doorknob and let him struggle with that while you drink a cup of coffee. Watch him out of the corner of your eye to confirm that his antics aren't endangering him. Repeat the procedure for five or ten minutes at a time until he is relaxed before attempting to walk with the leash in hand again.

Long Line

Many exercises are done on a fifteen-foot nylon cord called a long line. Since many pet stores don't carry them, just go to a hardware store and buy a swivel snap and fifteen feet of nylon cord — a quarter-inch in diameter for a medium-sized puppy and an eighth of an inch smaller or larger for small and large puppies, respectively. Tie the snap on one end and make a loop for your thumb on the other.

Light Line and Glove

The light line is a fifty-foot nylon cord. Use parachute cord for large puppies, Venetian blind cord for medium or small puppies, and nylon twine for tiny breeds. The light line is tied to the tab and used as you make the transition to off-lead work. When you're working with the tab and light line, wear a form-fitted gardening glove to ensure a better grip and to prevent rope burn.

Retractable Leashes

These popular leads come in lengths from eight to 32 feet. You can let the puppy venture away and explore without getting his legs entangled, thanks to a constant, slight amount of tension. Be aware, however, that these leashes can teach your dog to pull, as there is always tension. Never let your dog get around a corner when using these leashes.

The buttons on the easy-to-grip plastic handle allow you to lock it at a length as short as four inches for some models, or as long as the total length or any length in between.

To make your puppy adapt to your pace and stay by your side using a retractable leash, lock it in the shortest position. The plastic handle allows you to give a stronger tug than the leash allows, which is especially useful if space is limited or footing is bad. When you arrive at his potty area or meet up with a canine playmate, unlock the lead and, with your permission, let the puppy pull out the length.

Leash Walking

Begin the next phase of your training once your puppy is content to be near you no matter what distractions are around. This step teaches him to walk on a loose leash at your left side. Attach the six-foot leash to his collar and put your right thumb in the handle. Enclose your fingers around the straps of the handle below. Hold the midsection of the leash with the right hand, too, so your left hand is free. The leash should have just enough slack to touch the middle of your left thigh when your right hand is at your hip. Use the following points as a guide:

IF YOUR PUPPY CONSISTENTLY PULLS: When your puppy forges ahead, open and close your hand to release the slack, then grip the handle as you pivot and run away. Do this when his shoulder is only inches ahead of your leg, rather than waiting until he is tugging at the end of the leash or lunging frantically ahead. When your puppy is running after you, pick up the slack in the leash again and stop dead.

IF YOUR PUPPY RUNS RIGHT PAST YOU: Pivot once again and sneak away before he bolts ahead. If your puppy is a charger, watch his body language closely so it becomes easy to anticipate when to do multiple direction changes.

IF YOUR PUPPY ATTEMPTS TO LAG: Reduce the slack by tightening the leash a bit-about one to five inches-as you briskly walk forward. The puppy may bump into the back of your legs for the next few steps but that, along with the fact that the leash tightens against your left thigh with every step, will encourage him to return to your left side. Remember to keep your left hand off the leash so nothing interferes with your thigh pulling into the leash.