Bather
Bathing seems pretty easy and straightforward, but it is truly the most important part of grooming. If you don't properly bathe the dog, the hair won't fluff up well when drying, and the oil and dirt left behind will dull or ruin the clipper blades and scissors. Bathing a dog requires more than just a quick shampoo and rinse. The bather is the first one who teaches the dog to stand, and the dog learns to have every part of her anatomy handled. The bather is responsible for cleaning every area of the dog thoroughly, degreasing the hair and skin, and washing the face with a tearless shampoo.
Without proper bathing, the entire groom falls apart and you won't get good results. The bather is also the person who examines the pet's skin and coat and decides which shampoo and conditioner would be best for that particular dog. Most groomers have several different types of shampoos and conditioners for different skin and coat problems. Many groomers are quite expert at knowing which shampoo will help which skin problem.
Shampoo in your dog's eyes can sometimes cause corneal ulcers. You can put eye protection drops in a dog's eyes before the bath, but be warned: Some shampoos have degreasing agents in them that will break down the mineral oil in those protection drops, and then the shampoo can become trapped under the oil and still cause a corneal ulcer. Use a tearless shampoo for the face, and even then always gently flush the dog's eyes with water after a bath to rinse out any shampoo residue.
Parasites
The bather is usually the one who spots parasites such as fleas and ticks on the dog. People may not notice parasites until the hair is wet.
Advantage® and Frontline Plus® are available from your vet and online at many retailers. They are a spot-on treatment, which means they are a liquid you apply directly to the skin, between the shoulder blades. These brands are safe and very effective. There are many over-the-counter flea and tick spot-on treatments available, but you must read the ingredients. Many contain permethrin, which can be highly toxic. Pyrethrin, another common ingredient, is actually relatively safe compared to permethrin, but is not very effective at killing fleas or ticks.
Bathers can catch many health problems while bathing the dog because their hands feel every part of the dog's body and can feel lumps, warts, and injuries. The groomer reports any unusual findings to the owner so he can take appropriate action.
Fleas and ticks can cause many problems for dogs, such as fleabite allergies, tapeworm, Lyme disease, Rocky Mountain spotted fever, and other diseases. There are many safe products that can be used to prevent your pet from getting fleas and ticks.
Anal Sacs
The bather also does the messy jobs such as anal sac expression because it is easiest to do and clean up while bathing the dog. The anal sacs secrete a liquid substance that scientists believe contributes to a dog's individual scent, which is how dogs recognize each other. The anal sacs usually express themselves during bowel movements, but sometimes the sacs get clogged and the dog needs help expelling the liquid. Small dogs seem to have more trouble with their anal sacs than their larger counterparts.
Anal sacs can rupture if problems are not addressed. If you notice your dog scooting, licking, or otherwise acting as if he is very uncomfortable under his tail, he may need to have his anal glands expressed manually. It's a dirty job, but someone has to do it.
Not all groomers express anal sacs. Some groomers and vets see it as a veterinary procedure. Anal sacs can rupture if you express them with too much force and that is very painful for the dog. Most groomers express anal sacs from the outside with relative ease. If they are too difficult or the dog acts as if they are very painful, it's best to refer the owner to the vet, who may do an internal expression and check for anal sac abscess or infection.
Ears
Flushing an ear is another procedure that can be performed during bathing. Many dogs with debris, dirt, or wax in their ears benefit from flushing the ear canal with ear cleaner or a steady stream of water to flush all the debris out.
If you suspect the eardrum has ruptured, you should not put anything in the ear to clean it, as this can cause permanent hearing loss. If pus or blood are present inside the ear or if it is very sore and tender, the dog should see a veterinarian immediately before anything is done to the ears.
If you are treating your dog for ear mites or an ear infection and you do not clean the ears out, the medicine will not work. After flushing the ear and wiping it dry, you can put an alcohol-based cleaner into the ear to dry up any moisture left inside.
Straightening Coats
Drying is also part of bathing. It is the first stage in straightening Poodle-type coats. If the hair is not dried and fluffed straight, you will not have an even haircut. Different breeds require different methods of drying the hair. Poodle- and Bichon-type coats need to stand up, so drying them against the grain and back brushing for maximum fluff and straightening is paramount. If you want the hair to lie flat, you would not dry the hair against the direction of growth.
Dry a very sensitive dog, or one that is not used to a high velocity dryer, in a crate in a warm room using fans. Some groomers do this for at least part of the drying and home groomers can also; however, it may not give the nice straight results you are aiming for when doing a scissor cut on the dog.
Avoid using dryers with heat unless you can monitor the dog the entire time it is drying. Many short-nosed dogs such as Pugs, Shih-Tzus, and Bulldogs have difficulty breathing and cannot tolerate heat. Always use a cool setting on a hairdryer if possible. High velocity fans or dryers work best when drying dogs.
Dogs with Undercoat
Drying the dog with lots of undercoat is also very important. Cage drying or letting a dog air dry can make the undercoat shrink up and get very tight. Then you will have a huge job dematting the dog, and the dog will not find this the least bit comfortable. Always blow dry your thick, bushy breeds such as Collies, Shelties, Huskies, and Golden Retrievers so the undercoat does not become tight. Brushing them as you blow them dry will also help in the removal of undercoat.
