Finishing the Bath
You've already bathed the dog once, but there are a few more steps to go to complete the job.
Lather, Rinse, Repeat
The first shampoo gets the surface dirt, but the second shampoo will get the skin clean, so you need to repeat the process. The second shampoo will remove oils from the skin, and you will feel the difference in the hair. Follow the process outlined for the first shampoo.
Condition
Now it's time to condition. Again, you can dilute your conditioner just as you did your shampoo. Work the conditioner all through the coat. You should feel a difference in the hair immediately. This is a great time to comb through the coat with a wide toothed comb or rubber curry to remove loose undercoat. This is also a great time to work on any matting. Wet hair stretches, and this is a great way to loosen it up. Rinse out your conditioner well, unless you are using a leave-in product.
If the dog has a very dry coat and flaky skin, a heavier conditioner should be used. There are many that help to remoisturize, and hot oil treatments (for humans) can be very helpful. Also, you should take a serious look at your dog's diet because dry hair and flaky skin is common in dogs who eat food with little or no omega 3 and 6 fatty acids in it. Fish oil can be added to food to help improve skin, but a higher-quality food is preferable.
If your dog has normal skin and coat and no real issues, a light conditioner or a leave-in product may be used. The leave-in products work well as long as you don't overapply them. When the coat dries, the hair is left shiny and light. The product doesn't usually weigh down hair unless you overapply it.
Conditioners are necessary to coat the hairs to protect them. If your dog has very oily hair, look at the diet; oily skin and coat may be a sign of food allergies or other health issues. Even oily hair, once it's thoroughly washed, should have a very light conditioner applied to protect the hair. Just don't overdo it.
Heavier conditioners are great for helping rid double-coated breeds of shedding undercoat. Once the hair is squeaky clean, apply conditioner and brush it through the wet coat. You'll find a lot of packed undercoat is easily removed that way. Rinse well.
Ear Cleaning
If you are using an ear cleaner for the dog's ears, now is a good time to fill the ears with the cleaner and massage gently for a minute. This is the part that makes it all worth it for the dog — a good, long ear rub! Allow your dog to shake out the excess fluid and then wipe out the ears with a tissue, soft paper toweling, or cotton ball. Go ahead and put your finger way down into the ear, unless your dog has an ear infection. It won't hurt, and you will be able to wipe out any ear debris.
Pigtails
Pigtails are another area of concern with bathing Bulldogs, Boston Terriers, French Bulldogs, and those with curled-under tails that are short and hard to reach under. These tails require special attention because of the way they are shaped; bacteria tends to accumulate under the tail. You need to clean under it carefully, and you may notice some irritation from feces or bacteria that has been against the dog's skin. Clean and dry the area, then apply Preparation H® or Gold Bond® cream or powder to the area to soothe it.
If your dog has long hair, make a habit of lifting up his tail and looking for feces that may be stuck to the hair. Clip it out with blunt-tipped scissors if you can. If you don't regularly check and you don't realize that your dog has dingleberries under his tail, he could also end up with sores from the feces coming into contact with his skin.
Doggie Detailing
The bath is done. Under-tail area free of cling-ons? Check! Feet nice and clean? Check! Eyes free of debris and flushed out with plain water? Check! Anal sacs expressed if necessary? Check! Ears cleaned out and wiped out (including the doggie head shake)? Check! Dog rinsed very well? Check! Time to wrap her up in a towel and gently squeeze out the excess water.
