These French cheeses are stars of three cheese-making techniques. A soft bloomy-rind Brie with tones of earthy mushrooms pairs well with the light pungency of a semisoft, washed-rind Saint Nectaire. Contrast comes from the crisp, clean, blue called Fourme d'Ambert.

1. Bring all cheeses to room temperature. Arrange them on a platter, with separate knives for each cheese.

2. Put olives in a low bowl that can be placed on the same platter or next to it.

3. Slice the baguette and arrange in a bread basket or bowl, and complete the platter with a garnish of lemon leaves. Don't forget to put out an empty bowl for olive pits!