Dipping candles requires technical mastery. Understanding wax temperatures is crucial, as is how long the wick being dipped stays in the hot wax. Shaping the final candles can be a problem; beware of leaving surface blemishes. Here are some troubleshooting tips:

• If during successive dips your candle is not growing, it may be because the wax is too hot. Or, you may be keeping the candles in the wax too long.

• If the wax buildup is melting off the candle in the successive dips, the wax is too hot or you are keeping the candles in the wax too long.

• If the surface of the candle is forming bumps or blisters, it is because you are keeping the candles in the hot wax too long.

• If the candles have lumps and bumps, the wax is too cool.

That's Wicked

The correct burning of a wick is directly related to the melting point of the wax mixture during the dipping process and the diameter of the finished candle. If your wick doesn't burn correctly, you can analyze the problem and learn to avoid it in the future. Here are some common wick problems and how to recognize them:

Guttering

You will know when you see a guttering candle that the amount of wax being consumed by the flame is more than the wick can effectively absorb. The melted wax will overflow the candle and drip down its side. This dripping is called guttering.

In severe cases of guttering, all of the melted wax will run down the side of the candle, emptying out the pool of liquid fuel. Since the wick will then have no fuel, it will begin to smoke until it burns enough of itself to melt enough candle wax for fuel. At this point, it's best just to put the candle out, as you will have a drippy mess on the candleholder and whatever is underneath it.

SOLUTION: remelt the candle and try again with a different wick.

Cratering

This condition occurs in pillar candles when the wick is too small for the type of wax mixture and the diameter of the candle. With cratering, the wick will burn a deep hole in the center of the pillar, creating a “crater” that will fill with the melting wax. As the wick surrounds itself with melted wax, it will extinguish itself in the pool it has made.

SOLUTION: You can take a sharp knife and cut off the top of the candle until the wick is above its surface, then try again to burn it.

Another cause of cratering is when the wick is too large for the candle and absorbs more liquid wax than it can burn for fuel. When this occurs, you will have a smoking wick and a small bead of carbon will form on the tip of the wick.

SOLUTION: You can trim the wick and pour off the excess melted wax. Or, you can simply remelt the candle and use the melted wax to make another candle.

Sputtering

This condition occurs when the candle is not properly made. It may have air or water pockets inside it.

SOLUTION: Depending on the extent of the problem, it is possible that, as the wick seeks its fuel, it will burn past the problem area and be fine. However, if the air/water bubbles are throughout the candle, consider it a total loss and put in the “save for remelting” bag.

Wick Won't Burn

Occasionally, a wick just won't let itself be lit, or you light it and it instantly goes out. This problem is usually caused by additives, mostly color pigments of various types, clogging the wick's wicking system.

SOLUTION: Chances are, this is an unsolvable problem, for if you remelt you'll still have the clogging additives in the wax mixture. Make a note in your journal to avoid that formula and write it off to experience.

Surface Defects

If you don't get a smooth surface on your candles (like all the pretty pictures in candlemaking book displays!), it's because your wax is either too hot or too cool. Wax that is too hot can cause air-filled blisters. Wax that is too cool will thicken and produce a lumpy surface.

SOLUTION: Watch the temperature!

Make It Stick

Adhesion of the layers of wax being built up as you dip is important. If the layers do not meld properly during the successive dips, the candle may separate into concentric circles, like slices of an onion. To achieve good layer adhesion is the aim of the candledipper. Only thus can you produce a candle that is solid wax from core to outer layer. Such a candle won't come apart unless broken intentionally.

If you are having problems with layer adhesion, there are four things you can try:

• Increase the submersion time

• Decrease the time between dips

• Increase the temperature of the wax

• Raise the temperature of your work area and eliminate any drafts, especially cold ones

Use Your Notebook for Troubleshooting

We've said it before, and we are saying it again: Keep a notebook — especially when dipping candles. Because submersion time, time between dips, and wax and room temperature are all crucial elements, these should be meticulously recorded in your notebook. Then you can refer to these notes whenever you encounter trouble with dipping candles.

Note any adjustments you make to the temperature of the wax, and record the wax formula used. By doing this, you will know what wax mixture needs which temperature in order to work best. Since each wax mixture will have a different ideal temperature for dipping, notes are invaluable — if any time elapses, you may forget what you did that worked best.