Intermediate Conventions
Stayman and Blackwood barely touch the surface of the gamut of conventions available for those with open minds and a desire for improvement. Of course, many of the bidding conventions created over the years are somewhat useless, even inane, such as the convention known, for a very good reason, as Byzantine Blackwood. Just trying to remember all the rules involved in this convention would give you a headache.
Transfers
When your partner opens 1NT or 2NT, most of the time her hand will be stronger than yours. That's not a big news flash if your partner's 1NT shows 15–17 and 2NT shows 20–21. The point is covered in that old defensive maxim: Lead up to weakness and through strength. When the dummy is on your right, you lead the suit in which dummy is weak, hoping to promote some high cards in that suit in your partner's hand. When the dummy is on your left, you often play the suit in which dummy has strength, again hoping this will be advantageous for your partner.
By the use of transfers, you can force the opponents to “lead up to strength” in your partner's hand, usually not to their advantage. Here is a complete deal to illustrate the point.
The contract is 4 ♠. Do you see what a difference it makes if South can be declarer instead of North? If North is declarer, she will certainly get the lead of the ♣ J from that good sequence East holds. The declarer's queen will be trapped, and no matter what the declarer does, the defenders will subsequently take two club tricks, the ♦ A and one spade. That's down one.
Now look at it with South as declarer. West is in a bind. If he leads a heart, it's right into the declarer's A-Q. If he leads a club, the declarer will play low and make his queen. If West leads a diamond, it helps the declarer set up his long suit, and a neutral spade lead gives the declarer the timing to set up his diamond winners and get rid of losers from the dummy.
The declarer is obliged to bid whatever suit the responder is transferring to, making him declarer. Therefore, in nearly all cases, the strong hand will be led up to rather than through. This will keep the declarer's high cards from being picked off on the opening lead.
This type of advantage for the declarer is demonstrated over and over because of a convention most modern players use — the transfer bid.
Here's how it works. When the opener starts with 1NT and the responder has at least five cards in a major suit, she “transfers” the bid of that suit to the opener by bidding the suit directly “under” the suit she possesses. In other words, with spades, she bids 2 ♥ and with hearts she bids 2 ♦.
Versatile Transfers
Besides protecting the declarer's high cards, the transfer structure also allows for invitational bids not available without them. Without transfers, the invitational hand with a five-card major is very difficult. Simply bidding the suit at the two level is a signoff — your partner is not invited to bid again. Jumping to three of the major shows a hand good enough to be in game. There is no bid for the hand in between.
Using transfers, there is an excellent system for handling all the variations. Here it is:
After partner opens 1NT |
Five or more hearts or spades and 0–7 HCP: Transfer to the major and pass. |
Exactly five hearts or spades and 8–9 HCP: Transfer to the major and bid 2NT. |
Six or more hearts or spades and 8–9 HCP: Transfer to the major and raise the major. |
Exactly five hearts or spades and 10+ HCP: Transfer to the major and bid 3NT. |
Six or more hearts or spades and 10+ HCP: Transfer to the major and raise to game in the major. |
Note that when the responder bids 2NT or 3NT, the opener is free to pass without a fit (three or more cards) for the responder's major. Over a 2NT invitation, 3 ♠ by the opener shows a spade fit but not a maximum hand. Over 3NT, the opener may pass with no fit or bid game in the major.
Note also that when the responder has at least six of a major, she knows her side has at least eight of that major between them, so she is safe in not giving the opener a choice between no-trump and the major.
When you have a weak hand with a long minor after your partner opens 1NT, it's best to get to a suit contract right away. When you have a long minor and strength, you are usually going to play 3NT rather than five of a minor.
If you are using a transfer bid of 2 ♥ to show spades, then the 2 ♠ bid is not being used. Therefore, it is available for a better use.
Remember to discuss this with your partner before attempting to play it. This is the deal: When your partner opens 1NT, use the idle bid of 2 ♠ to tell partner to bid 3 ♣. You are either going to pass, holding club length, or you are going to bid 3 ♦, a signoff or “drop-dead” bid. In bridge lingo, a drop-dead bid means you most definitely do not want to hear anything more from your partner. And don't forget, when your partner opens 1NT, you are the captain. You know your hand is weak, so you know it's right to stop the auction in the lowest comfortable place.
Negative Doubles
You have been taught so far that when you double, it's serious business. In fact, a penalty double is often referred to among bridge players as a “business” double.
There's a lot more to “double” than penalty, however, and one of the most widely used conventions in the world is the so-called “negative double.” The negative double, basically a takeout double, was created to solve the following problem.
Say your partner opens 1 ♣ and your right-hand opponent intervenes with a bid of 1 ♠. You have a real problem with this hand if you don't play negative doubles.
♠ 763
You have 7 HCP and you want to bid, but what can you say? You can't bid 1NT — no stopper in spades. You can't raise clubs — you have only two. If you bid 2 ♦ or 2 ♥ you are showing 10–11 HCP and a five-card suit. Time to try to play negative doubles.
A double in this situation would say you have support for the unbid suits and enough to respond to your partner's opener. A negative double doesn't promise a lot of HCP as would a regular takeout double of an opponent's opening bid. The negative double says only that you want to compete and you want your partner to make an intelligent bid based on the auction. Of course, a negative double doesn't preclude a big hand, but you don't promise more than about 6 HCP.
Naturally, the higher the bidding the more you should have to make a negative double. If your partner will be forced to bid at the three level, you need more than 6 or 7 HCP to get into the fray.
Besides being able to show the unbid suits, the negative double also allows you to get in there and bid your own suit even if you don't have enough high cards to do so immediately. Take this next hand for example:
♠ 654
Your partner opens 1 ♣ and the next player is right there with 1 ♠. You were getting ready to show your heart suit, but now you would have to bid 2 ♥. That's a no-no because it would show at least 10–11 HCP, and you don't have that much. No matter how much you are tempted to, don't fudge in this situation and bid 2 ♥ anyway. If your partner learns that she can't rely on your bids, there will be trouble.
This seems like another insoluble problem, but it's not. Using the negative double, you simply double 1 ♠, and if your partner bids 1NT, 2 ♣, or 2 ♦, you will bid 2 ♥. This tells your partner that you wanted to bid hearts the first time around because you have at least five of them but you couldn't because you were short on HCP.
When an opponent overcalls in a major after your partner opens one of a minor, a negative double by you nearly always shows the other major. If you don't have the other major, you will have a long suit you would have bid directly but for lack of sufficient high-card strength.
If your partner opens 1 ♣ or 1 ♦ and the next player bids 1 ♥, a bid of 1 ♠ by you shows five or more spades. With only four spades, you will make a negative double. Your partner will go out of her way to bid spades if she has four of them.
How High?
If you and your partner agree to play negative doubles, you must decide how high you want to go with them. That is, at what point does the double become penalty rather than takeout? On the Standard American Yellow Card, negative doubles are marked to be played “through 2 ♠.” What this means is that if your partner opens and the next player bids something up to and including 2 ♠, a double by you is for takeout.
If the overcaller bids higher than 2 ♠, a double by you says a mistake has been made and you are hoping to capitalize on it by bringing in a large number. Many tournament players go higher; you and your partner should decide your own comfort level. In your early stages of bridge development, 2 ♠ is probably high enough.
You may be concerned that if you are playing negative doubles and an opponent makes a bid you know you will massacre, you now have no way to penalize the foolhardy opponent. Not true. You simply pass, and your partner will take care of you by doubling. How does he know to do this? Because he will generally be short in the overcaller's suit, which is his clue to give you a chance to get back into penalty position. If your partner doubles, ostensibly for takeout, and if you have the hand where you wanted to double for penalty right away, you simply pass — converting your partner's takeout to penalty.
Michaels Cuebid
The Michaels Cuebid, introduced in Chapter 6, is a handy weapon with which most tournament players are familiar. It is the creation of the late Mike Michaels, a Florida player and writer who could see that the traditional use for the direct cuebid — to show a powerful hand — came up too rarely to be effective.
A cuebid is a bid in a suit in which the bidder cannot wish to play. If your opponent opens 1 ♥ and you bid hearts at any time during the auction, it cannot indicate that you wish to play in hearts. In that sense, it is “forc-ing” — your partner is not allowed to pass. Cuebids may also be used at high levels to show aces. A cuebid is never an offer to play in the suit that is named.
As explained earlier, the bid of opener's suit is not meant to be natural, especially if the opening bid was a major suit. If the opener starts with one of a minor, a bid of the same minor shows at least five cards in each of the majors. If the opening bid was a major, a bid of that major shows at least five cards in the other major and an unspecified five-card minor.
The Michaels cuebid is fun to use because it is so descriptive, but resist the temptation to use it just because you have the correct distribution.
♠ J8654
This is not a good example of a Michaels cuebid of one of a minor. Most of your honor strength is in short suits. It would be much better to transfer those minor honors to your majors. Give this one a miss and pass quietly.
You must always, of course, be mindful of the vulnerability, particularly if you are using the Michaels cuebid after the opener started with a major. Remember, your partner is going to have to bid at the three level every time unless the bidding goes 1 ♥–2 ♥ and your partner has three or more spades. In all other cases, she will have to bid at the three level. If your hand looks more like what is known in some circles as a “piece of cheese,” you don't want to put it down in the dummy and have your partner struggle to take tricks.
♠ 6
This is a reasonable Michaels cuebid of 2 ♠ if the opener starts with 1 ♠. You have some decent spots in your long suits, so there is a measure of safety. Be prepared, however, for some calamities when your partner's hand is a terrible misfit for yours. You have no guarantees, of course, that your partner will have a fit for one of your suits, but it's certainly better to show your 5–5 hand than to overcall 2 ♥.
Do not use the Michaels cuebid unless you have two five-card suits. It is very important for your partner to be able to count on you to deliver what your bid promises. Making a Michaels cuebid with 5-4 in two suits is asking for a lot of trouble — and you will probably get it in the form of a double by one of the opponents.
Use Michaels primarily with modest hands in the 6–10 point range and with hands so good you simply want your partner to select a suit so that you can make a strong invitation to game or a direct game bid. With an intermediate hand, simply overcall in your higher-ranking suit, planning to bid the other suit (if necessary and/or practical) later.
Jump Overcalls
You have read a lot about the value of pre-emption. Here's a tip: It's not just for openers.
When you have a long suit and a weak hand, it can pay dividends to get in there and mess up your opponents' auctions.
♠ AJ87543
The dealer opens 1 ♣ and you are next to speak. Do you feel a stirring in your soul — a desire to say something? If so, you're becoming a dangerous opponent. What you want to do with that hand is to bid 3 ♠. That doesn't show a great hand just because you went to the three level. You have just shown a poor hand with a long spade suit and you have made it much more difficult for the opponents to reach the correct spot. If the next player bids, it will have to be at the four level.
If your hand were slightly different, say with the ♦ A instead of the ♣ 3, you would bid 1 ♠, a constructive action. If your partner managed a raise, you might make a try for game. The point is that when you jump to 3 ♠ directly, you're telling your partner you don't have much but you want to use up some bidding space.
All jump overcalls are weak, showing long suits with no defensive tricks in other suits.

